Goldie
128 Oliver Plunket Street, Cork; 021-2398720, goldie.ie
If Lir Seafood sits atop the north of the island, Cork’s little Goldie is the counterbalance. Sometimes it’s hard to believe that Aishing Moore is in her 20s, given all that she has achieved to date. Her style is driven by sustainability and an ‘all catch’ approach which uses whatever fish is landed daily. And in an effort to encourage the younger generation to eat more fish, children get to eat fish free on the first Wednesday of every month. JC
La Fougère at Knockranny House Hotel
Knockranny House Hotel, Knockranny, Westport, Co Mayo; 098-28600, knockrannyhousehotel.ie/dining/la-fougere
Seamus Commons, who worked in L’Ecrivain for many years, cooks with precision and flair and has a particular love for fish and game. It’s worth heading here in winter when the menu could include teal, mallard, partridge, pheasant, venison and hare. A popular place for family gatherings, there is also a private dining area, which can accommodate parties of up to 50 people. CH
Lottie’s
7-9 Rathgar Road, Dublin 6; 01-5585969, lotties.ie
Too often dinner with family or a group of friends results in a compromise, with the common denominator of crowd-pleasing dishes winning out. Lottie’s will tick these boxes but with the sort of dishes you want to eat, some of which are cooked over fire, including grilled octopus, bavette, and Andarl Farm pork chops. CH
Square
6 Market Square, Dundalk, Co Louth; 042-9337969, squarerestaurant.ie
Chef Conor Halpenny’s ethos is based on seasonal ingredients and creating menus that flow throughout the year. Snack on a warm Coolea biscuit before moving to potato velouté with pickled onion and smoked chicken or cod with Cafe de Paris hollandaise. The service is as friendly and warm-hearted as the food, making this a lovely spot for all the family. JC
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The Olde Glen Bar and Restaurant
Glen Village, Carrigart, Co Donegal; 083-1585777, oldeglen.ie
This has been the local go-to place for families and special occasions since Ciarán Sweeney took over the kitchen in 2021. The €65, four-course menu still includes his signature dish of fermented potato bread with foaming bacon mousse and cabbage, as well as fish landed in Greencastle and locally sourced meat. CH
The Sea Rooms
Kelly’s Resort Hotel, Rosslare, Co Wexford; 053-9173553, kellys.ie/the-sea-rooms-restaurant
Surely one of the most dramatic dining rooms in the country, if you bag the round table in the front corner here you have hit the jackpot. It’s a room for celebrating, for families getting together with the option of a €70 seven-course tasting menu or a €50 three-course menu which offers plenty of choice. Head chef Chris Fullam makes full use of local produce – fish from Duncannon and crab from Kilmore Quay, and vegetables from the kitchen garden. CH
The Tannery
10 Quay Street, Dungarvan, Co Waterford; 058-45420, tannery.ie
Paul Flynn is a legend of Irish cooking, having started his career in 1980s London with the legendary Nico Ladenis before returning home to La Stampa, then finally opening The Tannery with wife Máire in their hometown. Now, 25 years later, The Tannery is well-known for modern Irish cooking. Sunday lunch is hugely popular and there’s a town house and cookery school alongside. JC
