Mermaid takeaway review: Seriously good sausage rolls steal the show at stylish French food pop-up

What’s on offer?

Monkstown is glorious on a sunny weekend. Outdoor terraces are full of happy people and along the Crescent there’s a new summer takeaway, Mermaid, from renowned chef Temple Garner of Bresson. It features some of the restaurant dishes, including their popular scallop St Jacques. They also do takeaway cocktails. There are a few outdoor tables or you can grab one of the picnic tables nearby.

What did we order?

Toulouse sausage roll, pissaladiere (anchovy and onion tart), battered cod and chips, lobster roll and chips, and Paris Brest (pastry).

How was the service?

Chatty and charming. We arrived early before any queues formed, and sat at one of the tables until our food was ready.

Was the food nice?

The food here is very good. The Toulouse sausage roll, encased in golden puff pastry and cut into sizeable chunks may be the best we’ve ever eaten. Sautéed onions on top add to the taste with a very good wholegrain mustard sauce.

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The pissaladiere, a classic tart from the south of France, is made with crisp puff pastry and topped with anchovies, onions and Kalamata olives, scattered with rocket and Parmesan.

The battered cod is a sizeable chunk, steaming hot and pearly white in a golden batter with chips and a very fine tartare sauce.

The lobster roll is the most expensive item on the menu. The fresh lobster sits alongside roasted red pepper, something I would perhaps lose as it detracts a bit from the lobster flavour. It is hard to improve on the classic Maine lobster roll, where it is lightly dressed in mayo and celery.

The Paris Brest with pistachio and lemon curd is a real treat, made to the Frenchette recipe from their Back to Dine collaboration with the award-winning New York restaurant.

What about the packaging?

All of the packaging, round cardboard bowls with plastic lids and cardboard boxes, is recyclable, but will need to be wiped down properly first.

What did it cost?

Lunch was €59 for two people – pissaladiere, €6.50; Toulouse sausage roll, €5.00; battered cod and chips, €15.00; lobster roll and chips, €24.00; and Paris Brest, €8.50.

Where does it deliver?

There is no delivery, order at the Bresson pop-up. Open Wednesday-Sunday, 3-7pm.

Would I order it again?

The food is delicious, I would definitely order it again, and those Toulouse sausage rolls may be the best value around.