Revealed: The world’s best restaurant and it isn’t one of the usual suspects

Central, in Lima, was named best restaurant at the World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2023 awards ceremony in Valencia, Spain, on Tuesday night. The result is a promotion from number two last year for the restaurant, run by married chefs Virgilio Martínez and Pia León. Spanish restaurants Disfrutar in Barcelona, Diverxo in Madrid, and Asador Etxebarri in the Basque region, took second, third and fourth places in the annual rankings voted for by 1,080 industry experts in 27 regions across the world.

Central now joins Geranium in Copenhagen, last year’s winner, along with El Bulli (Spain), The French Laundry (US), The Fat Duck (UK), Eleven Madison Park (US), Mirazur (Italy), Noma (Denmark), Osteria Francescana (Italy) and El Celler de Can Roca (Spain) in the Best of the Best division, a hall of fame for previous winners that can no longer be considered for the number one spot.

It is the first time a restaurant from outside Europe and the US has headed this list, sponsored by S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna, which has been in existence since 2002. Central offers a tasting menu that celebrates the country’s biodiversity and indigenous ingredients, while also promoting sustainability. South America consolidated its position at the forefront of global gastronomy with nine restaurants in the list, including two new entries, Kjolle, also headed by Pía León (28th), and El Chato in Bogotá (33rd).

Asia also performed strongly, with seven restaurants in the running, headed by Odette in Singapore (14th). Two Dubai restaurants entered the rankings for the first time, Tresind Studio (11th, and best restaurant in Middle East and Africa) and Orfali Bros Bistro (46th).

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The 2023 edition of the list was marked by a number of new entries, with 12 making their debut in the top 50. The highest placed of these was Table by Bruno Verjus, in Paris. Atomix, a Korean restaurant in New York city, was the highest climber in the rankings, moving up 25 places to finish eighth.

Chefs, restaurateurs and food media from across the globe gathered at the city’s City of Arts & Sciences for the ceremony, staged in the auditorium of the Palau de les Arts. The biggest cheer of the evening, and a standing ovation, was reserved for Spanish chef Andoni Luis Aduriz of Mugaritz, who was awarded the Icon lifetime achievement award.