El Milagro review: These family-made Mexican takeaway tacos are a pop-up sensation

What’s on offer?

El Milagro is a Mexican family-run business, operated by Julian Trejo Pascual and his mother Maribel. They started out with a taco truck in Malahide Marina, stayed there till last December, and have been popping up in venues around the city since then. They are operating out of three different bars and Herbert Park market. Sauces are home-made in an industrial kitchen and they source their tortillas from Balam, a Mexican family business in Dublin who works directly with corn growers in Huamantla, Tlaxcala, Mexico. Their tortillas are made onsite with native Creole corn. The menu changes regularly.

What did we order?

We ordered toptopos (tortilla chips), vampiritos with beef birria, and the taco platter – a selection of six taquitos. Larger tacos are also available, two for €11.

How was the service?

I ordered in 57 The Headline, as online ordering is not yet available. The tacos can be packed for takeaway, or you can eat onsite, which seemed to be a popular decision judging by the amount of people eating in the pub. Service was pleasant and the food was hot.

[ The pizza here is so good it’s worth trying every slice ]

[ A serious taste of New Orleans on Dublin’s northside ]

Was the food nice?

The toptopos are notably good, crunchy home-made tortilla chips with guacamole and pico de gallo. A little more guacamole and salsa would have been welcome, as we ran out of dips before the tortilla chips were finished. The vampiritos – two corn tortillas topped with mozzarella – are laden with juicy beef birria; they’re slightly messy to eat but delicious. From the taco platter, the pork taquito is the winner, cooked slowly in achiote paste with a touch of orange juice till tender. The potato option could perhaps do with a shade more heat from the poblano chillies and the chicken tinga has been slow cooked with chipotle.

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What did it cost?

€29.50 for dinner for two people. Toptopos: €6.50; vampiritos: €8; and a taco platter: €15.

Where does it deliver?

It’s collection-only for now and you’ll need to visit the venue to order. You’ll find them at 57 The Headline every Tuesday from 6pm-9pm; Xico in Baggot Street on Monday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday from 6pm-9.30pm; at Joli in Stoneybatter from Wednesday to Saturday from 6pm-9pm; and at Herbert Park Sunday market from 11am-4pm. For the latest updates, it’s worth following them on Instagram.

Would I order it again?

Yes, particularly the tortilla chips and the pork tacos.