“Roast wild Wicklow Venison, a glass of lovely red and a Bramley apple crumble with dark chocolate and orange,” says chef John Dunne, executive head chef at Donnybrook Fair. He is talking about his death row meal which also happens to be a favourite Christmas dinner. “My daughter was seven before she tasted Christmas turkey and ham,” he laughs. “Now we’ve come full circle and have it every year.” We are sitting in the offices of Donnybrook Fair, above the bustling Morehampton Road store where I’m salivating over a clementine and mascarpone trifle he’s just whipped up- a testament to Donnybrook Fair’s commitment to elevating everyday dining into an occasion. Far from your average corner shop, the upscale grocers is teeming with people below us, shopping for produce that looks as if it was plucked straight from a country market that morning. Shelves are lined with organic vegetables, fine wines, locally-sourced cheeses, artisanal breads and condiments all of which reflect a deep commitment to provenance and craft. What sets it apart, however, is not just the quality of its food offerings but the sense of indulgence it brings to the everyday act of shopping – a reminder that food can be both sustenance and celebration. John is plating two dishes that embody this approach to food: simple, seasonal with attention to detail. On the table is a plate of smoked trout and salmon with celeriac and beetroot remoulade, finished with a mustard, dill and crème fraiche dressing – it’s light, fresh and elegant alongside a very fancy looking trifle. “They are the kind of dishes that take the pressure off Christmas. They can be made ahead, they look great and they’re easy to pull together which means you can enjoy the day instead of being stuck in the kitchen,” he says.
Donnybrook Fair Executive Head Chef John Dunne
John’s career spans some of Europe’s finest kitchens, including one, two and three-star Michelin restaurants, and he has led two Red M establishments as Chef Patron here in Ireland. After years in fine dining and a tenure growing Avoca’s food offering, Dunne joined Donnybrook Fair eight years ago. Today, he’s at the helm of their Dublin kitchen and he oversees everything from product development to mentoring young chefs, ensuring the brand’s offerings reflect its commitment to quality and creativity. Donnybrook Fair continues to evolve as a destination for exceptional food, driven by passion and purpose.
“My style has gone back to basics – quality ingredients, seasonality, local where possible,” he says. “All our food is open-pot cooking, just like you’d do at home, only in bigger pots. We don’t use artificial flavourings or shortcuts. Every product has a chef’s hand behind it.” The Donnybrook Fair kitchen operates six days a week with over 100 staff and covers the whole gamut from bakery and handmade meals to salads and deli. It’s one of the only kitchens in the country producing at that scale with that level of craft. It’s not about mass production; Donnybrook Fair’s food philosophy is rooted in chef-led innovation, seasonality and integrity with consistency being key. And that, he says, is the golden rule of good cooking. “You’re only as good as your last meal. It’s about consistency, getting up every day and doing it right. You can give the same recipe to four people and get four different results – you’ve got to feel it, you’ve got to love it.”
READ MORE
Christmas at Donnybrook Fair is a celebration of quality made simple. This year’s Christmas in a Box – serving eight to ten generous portions from trout and salmon smoked locally on Howth Pier to Irish honey-glazed ham and Feighcullen Farm turkey with delicious gravy and all the trimmings. Seasonal vegetables, an indulgent cheeseboard curated by their experts and, Christmas pudding and John’s mince pies complete the feast. There’s also a new ‘Sides box’, featuring favourites like garlic potatoes, braised red cabbage and roast root vegetables. “It’s about giving people that restaurant experience at home,” John says. “We use the best Irish ingredients, from our butchers in Donnybrook to locally sourced trout and produce from Rungis market in Paris. Even our new mincemeat is made in-house with Hennessy Cognac, Irish butter, succulent fruits, citrus and spices.” He’s clearly very proud of the brand’s reputation for quality. Donnybrook Fair has always been about creating food memories, he tells me and Christmas is the one time of year you don’t want to mess up the menu. “When people open a Donnybrook Fair meal, I want them to feel that sense of celebration and know they are getting a great meal. Even if they’re not cooking, they should feel that care. It’s food you’d be proud to serve yourself.”
This Christmas, let Donnybrook Fair transform your celebrations with food that is both a joy to serve and a pleasure to savour—crafted with passion, served with pride.
John’s Christmas Cooking Tips
Warm your plates before serving. It’s a simple action that makes all the difference. A hot meal deserves a warm plate and — every bite will taste better.
Sprouts are simply misunderstood. Think of them as leafy greens, not a duty. Roast halved sprouts with pancetta and a hint of ground cumin, or toss them in nutty brown butter with toasted hazelnuts. They’ll go from side dish to star dish.
Once the turkey’s out of the oven, pour off the fat and add a splash of wine, port, or even balsamic vinegar. Scrape up every brown bit from the pan — that’s pure umami. Add a good stock, let it simmer, then stir in a spoonful of cranberry sauce or soy sauce. It will bring a nice shine and deepen the flavour.
A good stuffing balances savoury, sweet and texture. Add diced apple, toasted nuts, or chopped dried cranberries along with plenty of fresh herbs. Bake it separately for extra crunch or stuff it loosely into the neck cavity to keep it moist and light.
Parboil your potatoes before roasting. Choose floury varieties like Rooster or Maris Piper — they crisp beautifully. Boil until the edges start to soften, drain, and shake the pan to scuff them. Those rough edges will turn golden and crunchy. Lightly dust with semolina before roasting in goose fat or olive oil on a hot tray. Finish with a twist of black pepper and sea salt — crisp, golden perfection.
Ingredients
- 250g Mascarpone
- 300g Single Cream
- 100g Icing sugar - sieved
- 1 Tsp Fresh Vanilla Essence or fresh Vanilla Pod
- 8 Clementines - segments
- 4 Tbsp Seville Orange Marmalade
- 100g Fresh Orange Juice
- 40 ml Valentia Island Vermouth
- 100g Boudoir Biscuits
- 100g Amaretti Biscuits - crushed
Method
Whisk the mascarpone, icing sugar and vanilla lightly until smooth and pillowy. Don`t over whip. Dip the boudoir biscuits in the orange juice and vermouth. Neatly arrange a layer in the glass bowl. Spread a thin layer of marmalade on top. Spread a layer of Mascarpone cream. Arrange a layer of clementine segments. Sprinkle some crushed Amaretti biscuits. Repeat the above steps. Finish the top with some clementine segments and Amaretti biscuits.
Chill before serving.
Ingredients
- 100g Irish Organic Smoked Salmon
- 100g Hot smoked Salmon
- 100g Smoked Goatsbridge Trout
- 200g Crème Fraiche
- 27g Seed Mustard
- 20g X Virgin Olive Oil
- Squeeze of Lemon Juice
- 2 Tsp Chives chopped
- 1 Tsp Dill chopped
- Sea Salt & Ground White Pepper
- 100g Celeriac, peeled and grated
- 1 Red Apple, cored and grated
- Mixed Baby Beetroots, peeled and grated
- 80g Mayonnaise
- 1 Lemon
Mix the grated celeriac and apple with a squeeze of lemon juice to prevent discoloration.
Add the grated beetroots and mix with the mayonnaise, seed mustard, salt & pepper.
Cover and chill.
Place a spoon of the remoulade in the centre of the plate.
Arrange the slices of smoked fish.
Add some crème fraiche dressing, picked dill, grated lemon zest and a drizzle of olive oil.
Serve with Crostini or toast.
