Donnybrook Fair, fresh from a revamp last year, has been a stalwart of the community for more than two decades. The store, on Morehampton Road in south Dublin, has succeeded in maintaining a local vibe while blending the charm of a traditional food market with all mod cons.
Manager Gordon O’Connor greets customers warmly, sporting a distinctive tie decorated with berries – a gift from the late Feargal Quinn, founder of Superquinn. O’Connor, who has more than 40 years of experience in grocery retail, began his journey under Quinn’s mentorship and still proudly wears the tie “to remind us we’re in the fresh food business”.
Fresh food is certainly the focus in the new-look store, constituting 75 per cent of its offering. New additions include an in-house bakery, made-to-order rotisserie chicken sandwiches and luxurious Irish dairy gelato. But O’Connor is keen to point out that it’s not just Donnybrook Fair’s food offering that’s top-notch.
Each section has a dedicated manager, passionate about their produce, something he says makes all the difference. “I always say running a shop is like baking a cake; you need all the right ingredients to make it work,” O’Connor adds.
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The colourful display of fresh-cut flowers at the store’s entrance is an innovative touch that O’Connor says has brightened up the store and added to customers’ shopping experience.
At the in-store florist beautifully created bespoke bouquets – which can be hard to come by in a retail setting – are crafted from an unusual selection of blooms.
“You won’t see this everywhere”, says Camila Alejandra Rivero who works on the concession. “People like to spend time walking around the flowers to see everything instead of just grab and go. Some even have a coffee as they do it”. Only a few months in, already the concession has regular customers, and not only for occasion flowers but for everyday flowers too.
“Eucalyptus is very popula – we call it ‘nature’s air freshener’ – and people have been loving the hyacinths and peonies at the moment,” says Rivero.
Just past the flowers is another feast of colour, an eye-catching fruit and vegetable section, expertly managed by Lolito Quisoy, who has worked at the store for more than 20 years.
“I started here in 2002 when I moved from the Philippines,” he recalls. Having initially known little about grocery produce, today Quisoy oversees what must be one of Dublin’s most appealing shop displays, ensuring freshness by rotating stock every morning. Since the revamp, he says it’s hard to keep the fridges stocked with the likes of fresh-cut pineapple, melon and fruit kebabs, such is the demand for these best-sellers.
Since its earliest days Donnybrook Fair has been known for stocking unusual varieties; Quisoy proudly shows off some of his favourites – purple and orange cauliflowers from Rungis Market in France, piel de sapo melons from Spain and Italian blood oranges.
“People like that you can’t get this range of product everywhere,” he says. He certainly knows what people like, and is always ready for a chat or to help. It’s the same on the shop floor among colleagues: “We all help each other. I’m beside the coffee so if they get busy I can jump in or I can help on the tills”.
Catalina Molnar looks after Donnybrook Fair’s busy delicatessen and the bustling new bakery, full of fresh-baked goods that, she says, “fly out the door every morning”. Coming from a hospitality background late last year and arriving mid-renovation, she didn’t know what to expect but was impressed that everyone was so welcoming. “Straight away I felt part of the business.”
When it came to upgrading this much-loved section of the store, the team were extra conscious of keeping customer favourites including ‘Fill To The Brim’ salad bowls and a selection of sandwiches that wouldn’t look out of place in a New York deli. But the star of the show is the new rotisserie – with free-range Irish chickens marinated in-house for 24 hours before roasting, which customers can enjoy whole to take home, or in sandwiches made with organic Tartine bread.
Molnar has thrown herself into learning about the produce, which includes a fine selection of Irish and European cheeses, and getting to know her customers’ wants. “I even have a lady who has started teaching me some Irish,” she laughs.
Our own Donnybrook Fair sausages are a big seller, especially on weekends
— Tomas Baranauskas
Another new team member is assistant manager Conor Walsh. Spending most of his time on the shop floor has meant plenty of customer interaction.
“We are known for having a great selection of premium products and we have lots of customers that come in looking for specific ranges. We will always do our best to get it in,” says Walsh. “For example, we added Mossfield Yoghurt, a brilliant Irish brand, after a customer asked for it – and now it’s selling really well.
Walsh proudly gestures the huge array of Irish products on display at Donnybrook Fair, including White Mausu and Chimac sauces, pointing out the many items they simply, “can’t keep on the shelves”, such is their popularity among customers. The store is an exciting place to be, he says, because, typically, its customers are curious about the produce. “Our team is curious too: lots of us are foodies, so we always have lots of recommendations and chats with customers.”
Over at the butcher and fishmonger counters is Tomas Baranauskas, a seasoned team member who’s been with Donnybrook Fair for over 11 years. Managing both these busy sections means he’s got to know the store’s customers well.
“I know who’s coming in for steaks, all carefully sourced by our beef expert James Tormey, and I’ve plenty of customers who are particular about their sausages,” says Baranauskas. “Our own Donnybrook Fair sausages are a big seller, especially on weekends.”
Other big sellers are the super-convenient prepared meat and fish meals. From Tuscan Tray Bakes to the ever-popular breakfast parcels, all are freshly made by the in-house team using ingredients sourced directly from the shop shelves.
Baranauskas loves staffing the fish counter, a standout feature of Donnybrook Fair, with fresh produce displayed like daily works of art.
“The most popular is hake, cod and the organic salmon from Clare Island. It’s all coming from Kish Fish in Malahide, so sometimes they’ll bring fish straight from the day boats in Howth. We often get deliveries twice a day,” says Baranauskas, for whom talking to customers is a highlight. “It is part of the job. We discuss everything from cooking tips to rugby.” His dedication is evident as he recalls a recent request: “We prepped hundreds of Dublin Bay prawns for one order. Our hands were sore, but we had a happy customer!”
Ray Connolly has been a buyer with Donnybrook Fair for 10 years and is thrilled to have been part of the store’s wine and off-license overhaul. “We’ve invigorated the whole range,” he explains. “We did a huge amount of research and included the customer in that, asking what they liked and didn’t like.”
The result is an expanded space with an extensive range of wines displayed by country and then appellation. Whether you’re looking for a wine to pair with your dinner or an occasion wine, Connolly says the team make sure there is always someone on hand to advise.
“Customers want to talk about wine. They want guidance,” he says. “We also do in-store tasting and that goes down very well.” Newly added is a selection of Irish-produced drinks including bottles of locally made Craft Cocktails, special Irish whiskeys and a fun selection of Irish craft beers.
Exploring the new store, the quality is evident, from the food and produce to the dedicated team fostering strong relationships with customers. As O’Connor puts it: “You can have all the best fixtures and fittings in the world, but without key people looking after your customers, it doesn’t work.” This philosophy underscores the essence of Donnybrook Fair: exceptional food paired with exceptional service.
