In recent years road trips were understandably frowned on, what with all the carbon. Now, thanks to the proliferation of electric vehicles, touring routes are back in vogue, and not a minute too soon, given all the glorious options we have here. Contrary to perception, not all involve queuing along the Wild Atlantic Way. Here are a few fab ones less likely to cause congestion.
Wicklow wild and mild
The Garden County is hands down the best place in Ireland for a road trip, with rolling hills, forested glens and sparkling seas all taking turns to provide the view.
Start by coming off the N11 at Bray and driving up through Enniskerry village to Glencree, past a former military barracks that is now, with no little irony, a peace and reconciliation centre. Just across the road you’ll find the German war cemetery.
Load up your playlist with Irish History Podcast‘s new release, Breaking Ireland’s Bandit Country. A lovely initiative from Wicklow County Council, it charts the county’s famous Military Road and makes a great listen as you wend your way along it to the lunar landscapes of the Sally Gap.
Turn left there for Roundwood and down to Ashford, stopping for lunch at the Chester Beatty Inn because the food is delicious and the staff superb.
From there head back down the N11, turning right just before Arklow, bound for the pretty village of Avoca. Stop for a highly entertaining tour of Avoca’s historic mill, an idyllic spot where local weavers have been working their magic with skeins of yarn since 1723. And also, cake. The mill has a gorgeous cafe on site.
After that head north for Rathdrum, where you’ve your pick of forest stops including Avondale, home to Coillte’s Beyond the Trees experience. The views from the top are spectacular, as are the shrieks from the grown-ups taking the helter skelter back down.
Leave Rathdrum for Laragh, along arguably the most beautiful stretch of road in the country, especially in summer when it feels like you’re driving through a swimming pool of green. From Laragh it‘s back up to Roundwood, down to Enniskerry and home from whence you came.
Comely Carlow and Kilkenny
This part of the world is perfect for a leisurely drive, with bucolic farmland and tidy hedgerows low enough to allow you see it. And because it‘s off the beaten track for international tourists the roads are quiet and the villages relaxed.
You’re also spoiled for choice in terms of places to stop and explore. Heading south, take the N30 and the R702, turning right at Kiltealy and continuing on to St Mullins to explore the ancient monastic site and stretch your legs along the Barrow. How this towpath is not a Unesco world Heritage Site defeats me, because there is nowhere as beautiful to walk.
Sign up for a self-guided canoe trip with local family business Go With the Flow, which really showcases the Barrow’s beauty. When you stop paddling and start drifting, the views and sounds are almost exotic.
Afterwards don’t miss the opportunity to visit the Goodly Barrow cafe for a restorative bite, just across the county line in Goresbridge, Co Kilkenny – the soup alone is worth the drive. Then it‘s back in the car along the R705 for Thomastown and the Woodstock Estate at Inistioge.
The village is beautifully scenic, with an approach that descends to an 18th century, 10-arched stone bridge. Woodstock is a wonderful arboretum with a coffee shop in an antique conservatory, overlooking terraced gardens.
Head next for the ruins of Jerpoint Abbey and don’t miss the chance to book a tour around the “lost village” of Newtown Jerpoint, just across the road.
Home to Maeve and Joe O’Connell, it offers a wonderful opportunity to find out how they discovered a medieval village under their farm, reputed locally to house the tomb of St Nicholas, the man who inspired Santa Claus. If you’re lucky there’ll be a chance of a sheepdog demonstration too.
Finish up along the R713 and N10 to the Marble City, Kilkenny, which has loads of great stops to explore, including the 16th century home and gardens at Rothe House.
Wend through Wexford and Waterford
For generations of Dubs, Wexford has been synonymous with summer and, yes, it really is sunnier. Just driving along its back roads, fringed with sand the closer you get to a beach, is a lovely way to explore.
But there are loads of interesting spots to stop and enjoy too. Head south down the N25 past Tagoat to Lady’s Island, a short walk around which will bring you up close and personal with all the terns home for the summer holidays – Arctic, sandwich and, if you’re really lucky the rarest, roseate.
If you’ve young kids there’s a lovely playground too, right beside the community cafe. It‘s run on a voluntary basis and couldn’t be nicer, with soups, toasted sandwiches and fresh home baking, and prices you haven’t seen since you were a child. Simply everything about the enterprise is appetising.
Thus replenished, it‘s back along the R733 past Wellingtonbridge and to Tintern Abbey. A “daughter house” of its more famous sibling in Wales, it was established in 1200 by the same patron, William Marshal, Earl of Pembroke, as part of a bargain made with God were he to land safely in a storm, which he did, on nearby Bannow Bay.
Most beautiful in May when it is carpeted in bluebells, its riverside walkways are a treat in all seasons and, if you’re lucky, Hamish‘s pizza ovens will be open for business too.
From there head along the R733 through Ramsgrange towards Ballyhack, taking the car ferry at Passage East to Waterford, just because it‘s fun.
Crossings run continuously through the day, until 9pm in summer, and take just 10 to 15 minutes a pop. Once docked head for Mount Congreve Gardens in Waterford via the R683.
If you haven’t been in a while the estate has been redeveloped and boasts a lovely coffee and gift shop in the main house. What hasn’t changed is the star of the show, the gardens, which are, thankfully, just as their green-fingered founder Ambrose Congreve envisaged them.
What the man reckoned to be the last employer in Ireland of liveried staff might not have envisaged is that today the hoi polloi can stay over.
This year Mount Congreve, which is owned by a trust consisting of Mount Congreve Estate and Waterford City and County Council, has launched a range of accommodation, from forest eco cabins to off-grid bell tents to historic gate lodges. If you’re tired from all that driving, it‘s a great place for a pit stop.
Dublin to Dundrum – the other one
The M1 motorway north out of Dublin is the country’s busiest artery. But to whizz up and down from Dublin to Belfast is to miss its value as a touring route, because there’s loads to stop and see along the way.
Start with Ardgillan Castle and Gardens in Balbriggan. Managed by Fingal County Council, this 194-acre estate has gorgeous gardens and parklands that sweep down to the sea. There’s a formal rose garden, a nicely laid out walled garden and an actual vegetable potager – teeming with food – plus Victorian glasshouses restored to their former glory.
Just a little further up the road is the Oldbridge Estate, home to the Battle of the Boyne visitor centre. While the house is closed to visitors the grounds are open and there’s a lovely cafe with garden views.
Or continue on up the M1, past Drogheda and Dundalk, and swing right for a quick wander around Carlingford’s medieval streets. It‘s got great cafes and restaurants, including Fishy Dishy and Coffee House.
From there head on towards Newry, taking the coast road via Warrenpoint to the seaside resort of Newcastle, with its great prom and seaside vibe. Cafe Mauds is super friendly with great food, coffee and, of course, ice cream.
Stock up for a picnic at Tollymore Forest Park nearby, or stay seaside at Murlough, a nature reserve of huge sand dunes and spectacular views, in the pretty little village of Dundrum. The village has a tidal harbour and imposing castle ruins. After dinner in The Buck’s Head, recently refurbished and reopened by new owners, it‘s time to turn for home.
Relaxing routes through Roscommon and Sligo
Back on the road less travelled, driving in this neck of the woods pays dividends in terms of peace, quiet and wonderful scenery.
Start at Lough Key Forest Park in Roscommon, for all the fun of the forest plus the sheer joy of the Boda Borg, the mother and father of escape rooms but one at which kids can excel (they’re small enough to fit under the laser beams.)
From there travel up the R285 to the Arigna Mining Experience, which is guided by former miners and in which kids get to detonate dynamite or, at least, a facsimile.
Another hour’s drive along the R284 will wind you through Yeats country to Drumcliffe and the foot of Ben Bulben, views of which are always spectacular.
From here head south and west along the N15 and R292 to Strandhill. Too dangerous to swim, it‘s a bracing spot for a walk and a chance to chow down at Shells Cafe, great for breakfast and lunch.
If you feel like a dip, take the R292 and R291 east to Sligo and back out again to get to Rosses Point, just to the north. Its expansive family friendly beach is lifeguarded during the summer. From there it‘s about an hour’s drive back to Lough Key, via the N4. If you’ve brought your tent, pitch prices start at just €20 a night, leaving you all set for your next jaunt tomorrow.
