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Visit Belmullet, just 4,845km from New York

Author and film producer Fiona Graham reflects upon the enduring charm of her favourite corner of Co Mayo

Belmullet has a wealth of beaches, some serene and sheltered, others with huge breaking waves ideal for surfing
Belmullet has a wealth of beaches, some serene and sheltered, others with huge breaking waves ideal for surfing

With New York as its nearest neighbour to the west, Belmullet is one of Ireland’s most rugged, exposed, raw and magnificent destinations. Soaked in timeless beauty, Belmullet is a wild and captivating place that beckons visitors to return again and again.

Located on the Mullet Peninsula in northwest Mayo, Belmullet is not a drive-through town but a destination, making it feel contained, safe and wonderfully secluded.

Belmullet boasts superb beaches, dramatic walks, boat trips and sea safaris, a world-class golf course, water sports, fishing, lively pubs, excellent restaurants and a community that opens its arms to all who visit.

But first, let’s talk about the beaches. They are scattered everywhere: white sand as far as the eye can see. Some are more serene and sheltered, providing crystal clear swimming waters, and others have large breakers perfect for surfing or an invigorating walk. For water sports enthusiasts, kayaking, snorkelling, surfing, paddleboarding and kitesurfing lessons and camps are available. Whatever the weather, there’s always someone playing in the waves.

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For those who prefer not to brave the ocean, Belmullet Tidal Pool offers the buzz of swimming in the sea within the sanctuary of a pool. Situated on Shore Road, the pool hosts swimming events and lessons and is open to all visitors. Warm up with a hot chocolate from the Seabiscuit coffee hut, or prepare for the cold water in the mobile Sona Sauna. The Tidal Pool is open 24 hours a day and is the perfect place to view Belmullet’s sensational sunsets.

Belmullet embodies the Wild Atlantic Way and is stunning, even on a grey day, with cliffs, rocky headlands and thundering waves. There is no better place to capture this magic than the Erris Head Loop – a 5km wild walk against the backdrop of the Atlantic Ocean crashing against sea cliffs. Guillemots and gannets fish the waters alongside passing dolphins, seals and porpoises. Erris Head is a conservation area of diverse flora, fauna, and nesting seabirds. The views of the rugged islands and wondrous sea arches from the northernmost tip are breathtaking.

Despite its position, out on a peninsula limb, Belmullet’s social scene is vibrant

The area has numerous fantastic walks, but a trip to Wild Nephin Ballcroy National Park is a must. The Nephin Beg Mountain Range rises from fifteen thousand acres of Atlantic Blanket Bog and offers trails and walks for all levels – coastal walks with panoramic views of Achill Island or challenging all-day hikes or wild camping. At night, Wild Nephin National Park becomes Mayo Dark Sky Park, showcasing one of the darkest, clearest skies in the world. Be dazzled by stars, planets, The Milky Way and even a meteor shower.

A short drive from Belmullet is the Neolithic site at the Céide Fields, a system of stone-walled fields dating back six thousand years. This award-winning heritage site has a beautifully designed visitor centre set against incredible rock formations. Close by is Dún Briste (Broken Fort), a haven for puffins and seabirds. This dramatic 45m sea stack resulted from a collapsed sea arch in high tides during a storm in 1393. The people who lived there were rescued using ship’s ropes to cross the chasm.

To see the skies and landscapes from the water, several boat tours and charters from Blacksod offer trips to the shimmering green and silver Iniskea islands, sea safaris and angling trips. If terra firma is preferred, take a scenic drive to visit the four lighthouses of Erris: Blacksod, Eagle Island, Blackrock and Ballyglass. Or visit St Deirbhile’s well and church, where visitors avail of the legend that squeezing through the west window prevents death from drowning.

A key attraction of Belmullet that pulls in thousands of domestic and international visitors is Carne Golf Links, hailed as one of the finest examples of natural golf links in the world.

Raw and untamed, Carne draws golfers worldwide to experience the awe-inspiring course and breathtaking views across the Atlantic Ocean. Carne’s Lir Bar and Restaurant provides a warm welcome to visitors and golfers alike and serves excellent cuisine against the backdrop of sensational sunsets over the dunes.

Despite its position, out on a peninsula limb, Belmullet’s social scene is vibrant. The town has a large population of young people and welcomes home regularly returning Irish diaspora as well as national and international tourists.

The sheer wildness of Belmullet creates a sense of mystery and magic

The many pubs have something to offer everyone. McDonnells is also known as The Lobster Pot, because once you get in, there’s no getting out (or wanting to get out). It’s a traditional pub with a roaring fire, snug and storming music at the weekends – an excellent spot to enjoy an early quiet pint or tighten the dancing shoes for a rip-roaring evening. Guests will receive the biggest welcome from the pub’s owner, Padraic. In the summer, the outside beer garden provides plenty of space to enjoy a drink in the sunshine.

The Clann Lir offers an equally friendly welcome from owner Martin Mac. And O’Ds is a popular traditional Irish pub with a pool table and live music. Revellers are spoilt for choice in Belmullet, with all of the pubs in the town guaranteeing an unforgettable night out among friendly locals.

The Talbot Hotel is a family-owned boutique hotel. The stylishly designed rooms offer comfort and luxury at affordable prices. Downstairs is the Talbot’s award-winning Seafood Bar and Anchor Restaurant.

The Anchor might feel just as at home in any cosmopolitan city, but it has a relaxed, informal atmosphere, making it a fun and comfortable place to enjoy fresh local produce. The Seafood Bar has live music at the weekends and often Irish dancing.

Broadhaven Bay Hotel boasts spectacular views and has 88 bedrooms that can accommodate larger groups. It also has a 25-metre swimming pool, gym and spa.

The Western Strands Hotel provides ten coastal-themed rooms and a restaurant with high-quality, locally sourced cuisine. The bar hosts live music at the weekends and has a beer garden.

The sheer wildness of Belmullet creates a sense of mystery and magic, but this captivating, unworldly place instils a feeling of being completely at home.

Fiona Graham is the author of award-winning novel The Chancer and screenwriter and producer of award-winning Irish feature film Songs for Amy