Throughout the sunny afternoon, amid selfies, people quietly approach the bonfire stack, quietly leave offerings and circle the pile. The fire will burn away the old, making room for something better. Some dance, and others pause to collect their thoughts.
But as the day ends, the crowds really begin to gather at the top of the Hill of Uisneach in Co Westmeath, ready to honour this ancient Celtic ritual marking the beginning of summer: Bealtaine, the May Day festival. Since 2009 the Bealtaine Fire Festival has been reviving this folk tradition, by burning a large ceremonial fire at sunset, with processions, song and dance.
The hill itself, which towers above the nearby landscape, is deeply tied to ancient Irish folklore. The primeval ceremonial site is a protected national monument, with earthworks – both prehistoric and medieval – scattered throughout the hill. The name roughly means “place of the hearth” or “place of cinders”. In Irish mythology the hill is associated with the sacred centre of Ireland, the burial place of Irish gods, and druid lore.
Bealtaine roughly marks the midway between the spring equinox and summer solstice. It is one of the four main Gaelic seasonal festivals – along with Samhain, Imbolc, and Lughnasa. It is mentioned in early Irish literature and is associated with important events in Irish mythology – and traditionally was when cattle were driven out to the summer pastures. Rituals were performed to protect cattle, people and crops, and to encourage growth after the darkness of winter. With very fair weather so far this May, it seems to be working.
