William Bulfin, early biker round Ireland

In Buenos Aires I read the The Southern Cross, a newspaper that has been serving the large Irish-Argentinian community in Argentina since 1875.

One of its early editors was William Bulfin who came from Co Offaly and who was better known in this country as author of a memorable account of travelling by bicycle around Ireland called Rambles in Eirinn. Much later I came across a copy of this remarkable travelogue. I read it with interest, lost it shortly afterwards, but remembered much of it and then learned something about its author.

Bulfin was born in 1863 at Derrinlough near Birr. He was well educated at national and secondary level. At 20 he and a brother departed for Argentina. From 1830 there had been a steady flow of emigrants to that country from Ireland, mostly from midland counties. These were relatively well-off people, many of who found opportunities in cattle ranching and sheep farming on the vast grasslands known as the pampas. The brothers spent little time in Buenos Aires before taking up ranching.

William loved the outdoor life, on horseback for much of the time, herding cattle or sheep on the great plains under big skies. He came to admire the gauchos, the hardy cowmen of Spanish/Indian heritage, famed for their horsemanship and powers of endurance.Then after some years on the pampas, he felt the need to return to Buenos Aires and make use of his natural aptitude with words and language. He got a job as a sub-editor on The Southern Cross, later becoming editor. He wrote evocative sketches on the Irish living on the pampas, of the satisfactions and the rigours of ranching, and especially about the lives and traditions of the gauchos.

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His editorship kept him in close touch with nationalist Ireland, in large measure through his friendship with Arthur Griffith, one of the founders of Sinn Féin and publisher of The United Irishman newspaper.

Bulfin was aware of the land war and the momentous changes taking place back at home and wanting to see for himself how the country was faring he came back to Ireland in 1902.

It seemed to him that the best way to do this was by bicycle. He bought a sturdy farmers' bicycle made by Pierce's of Wexford, at that time the leading manufacturer of agricultural machinery.

It was said of him he had the bearing of a self-assured cavalry officer as he pedalled the highways and byways. It would have been hard going. Most of the country roads were in poor condition, rutted and potholed. Yet the slow pace suited him. He often got off his bicycle to chat to men and women he chanced upon, other travellers, wandering farm labourers and vagabonds. A genial manner enabled him to ask questions without seeming inquisitive.

He put up in lodging houses, some good some poor in terms comfort and meals. He listened to stories of events and of local folklore from other guests and landladies.

His facility with words enlivened his descriptions of people, places and landscape and of the bad weather he often encountered. Because of his own experience he had a special interest in cattle and sheep farming and often put his bicycle aside to walk the land with farmers, listening and noting what they had to say. A fit man, he joined in with people saving hay and cutting turf. Among other things, he described a memorable ride on a jaunting car and he pedalled to the Boyne Valley and visited the Hill of Tara, describing it as a place redolent of illustrious history and legend.

In his writing, Bulfin expressed his conviction that British rule had deliberately stunted the development of the country. He conveyed his dislike of the diminishing landed gentry class that once held a measure of power and influence.

His sketches were first printed in The Southern Cross and other publications over some years, before being collected into Rambles in Eirinn, and published in 1907. It was seen as exceptional for its observations, insights and descriptions.

Buflin became ill while in the US raising funds for Griffith’s newspaper. He returned to Ireland on New Year’s Day 1910 and died shortly afterwards. A son, Eamon, took part in the Easter Rising, while a daughter, Catalina, married Seán MacBride, who was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize in 1974.

The Southern Cross is now published as a monthly magazine, mostly in Spanish, and reflects the assimilation of the Irish into Argentina.