Una Mullally: Hospitality insiders dismayed at scale of crisis facing sector

The easing of restrictions on hospitality and live events has been such a relief for workers and punters alike. But now we have another problem. Staffing and recruitment crises exist across almost all industries right now.

In hospitality, the struggle to recruit and maintain staff is stretching many bars and restaurants, with staff doubling up, working more hours and dealing with exhaustion.

On Friday I did a quick straw poll of people I know who work in hospitality to gain their perspectives. It’s unscientific, but real-world experience can colour the picture between the stats. One who runs a nightclub was due to go on a long-awaited holiday this week, but cancelled it in part due to staff shortages. “Constant pressure, constant worry,” he said, regarding staff shortages.

“Honestly I think the staffing issue is really, really multilayered. Everyone in the industry is tired and a bit defeated.” He says workers are left thinking: do I want to go back to bar or service work for €13, €14, €15 an hour, being slammed by customers who often don’t consider people on the other side of the bar, in a country I’ll never get a home in, and the pay doesn’t cover rent and food?”

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While he manages to pay his team on average €20 an hour, and believes employers need to increase wages, he says the reality is: “It’s all well and good to say increase the wages, but I think the margins on many businesses just won’t allow for that.”

Another who runs club nights and events says the scarring in the industry caused by lockdowns is having an impact on recruitment. “The biggest problem now is convincing staff, particularly casual staff and students, that we are open for good this time, and that we won’t be locked out of work again at some point.”

Many raise the issue of rude customer behaviour adding to the already high stress levels of staff

Another, who runs a well-known Dublin bar, speaks about how having a strong sense of family among the staff and a good brand reputation is saving them from the worst aspect of the crisis.

“We lost a lot of staff over the lockdowns – they gave up and returned to Brazil or wherever, or moved into less uncertain work – but we haven’t really had problems recruiting more. There’s still plenty of young foreign workers and students looking for work, though we probably benefit from the fact that we’re well known and it’s a fun place to work, and the fact that we’re not looking for skilled workers or chefs.”

Rude staff

Many raise the issue of rude customer behaviour adding to the already high stress levels of staff. That’s something we can all address. We all have pent-up frustration from this time and, unfortunately, those less in control of their emotions are transferring that on to baristas and bar staff.

So take a breath the next time you want to lash out. It might be the only rant you have that day, but the target of your misplaced ire is dealing with that repeatedly.

The Government’s rhetoric on cutting wage subsidies is quite disconnected from the reality of hospitality. The point of view that individuals don’t need subsidies because there are loads of vacancies, so they can just get a job, completely misses the point. The issue is that there are loads of vacancies because businesses are finding it incredibly hard to recruit.

For the vast majority of workers in hospitality, it's the cost of their rent that dictates everything

Recruitment shortages raise wages, which adds to the mix of the inflation spiral we’re in. Governments everywhere are understandably terrified of the inflation crisis, but there seems to be hardly any conversation from government about how much the cost of rent is contributing to inflation here.

For the vast majority of workers in hospitality, it’s the cost of their rent that dictates everything. The more you pay in rent, the less money you have for everything else, the higher your wages need to be. Everything gets driven up.

And yet the Government is preparing cost of living interventions across apparently everything besides rent. Let me say it again: the fundamental cost of living issues in Ireland are the high cost of rent and the high cost of childcare. The Government can address this today. Cut and freeze the rents.

Dublin tightrope

Finally, a restaurateur who spent the pandemic constantly adapting had this to say, and it provides an excellent summary of what’s going on. “There are so many reasons why it’s difficult to find staff, no matter what the industry. I could write an essay on it.

Many people left Dublin city and Ireland during the pandemic. They may not come back as they more than likely have settled somewhere else. Then there’s the commute, working from home, a change of career direction and so many new options that simply didn’t exist before.

There has been a huge swing in the live-to-work, work-to-live conundrum. Many are simply opting out

“In hospitality, that might mean not wanting to work weekends any more, or to deal with the public. Many left because their jobs were unstable with Covid closures, and now may have a more stable income working in another sector.

“Dublin city will be walking a tightrope over the next few months as more venues, bars and restaurants get much busier, therefore work is much harder, and there’s much more pressure for the same – if not less – pay.

“It’s a myriad of issues. And that’s before you even mention the housing crisis, childcare, and the ‘What’s it all for?’ feeling that has engulfed many people over the past couple of years. It’s a complicated situation. Work isn’t a calling. People can do other things with their life. There has been a huge swing in the live-to-work, work-to-live conundrum. Many are simply opting out.”