Sun and samba add rare sparkle to event in capital

DUBLIN: Multicultural ambience as thousands from around world take part in and watch spectacle, writes Alison Healy.

DUBLIN:Multicultural ambience as thousands from around world take part in and watch spectacle, writes Alison Healy.

SURELY SOME mistake? It was St Patrick's Day - but where were the sleet showers, the gale-force winds and the driving rain?

It was 10am and the sky above Dublin's GPO was bright blue. Two hours before the parade was due to start, the crowds were already forming neatly behind the barriers along O'Connell Street. When did Irish people ever turn up so early for an event?

But a closer listen to the accents told the true tale. Polish people in enormous green hats. Chinese with giant green, white and gold blow-up hammers. Nigerian children with the Irish colours painted on their faces.

READ MORE

Less tasteful accessories were commandeered by the Irish. Prosthetic bare bottoms complete with a lipstick kiss were popular among gangs of teenagers. However, Conradh na Gaeilge mustn't have been consulted about their design, as "póg mo thóin" was misspelt. Not that the bottom-wearers were worried. They were too busy climbing on telephone boxes and clinging to statues for better views of the parade.

Festival chief executive Donal Shields left the fake bottom at home but was still resplendent in his green tie and trousers. "It would be outrageous if I didn't wear green," he said. "I'd be strung up."

Just after noon, there was a flurry of activity as Minister for Arts, Sport and Tourism Séamus Brennan arrived, followed by President Mary McAleese and her husband Martin.

The Army No 1 Band received one of the loudest cheers when they kicked off proceedings. Facing the President, they played The Dawning of the Day, reviving painful memories of numb fingers playing the tin whistle in the school band. An over-excited equine member of the Garda Mounted Unit left a deposit on O'Connell Street, causing concern for the safety of the Illinois baton twirlers who would be skipping up the street moments later. Happily, no one lost their footing.

Dublin's lord mayor Paddy Bourke almost lost his footing when the enthusiastic horses pulling his 1791 gilded State coach refused to stop as he tried to alight beside the GPO.

There was another frisson of excitement when a giant bike piloted by St Patrick seemed to be heading straight for the grandstand populated by VIPs including President McAleese. But the danger was averted at the last moment and it continued on its wobbly course down the street.

If the worst had happened, at least there were plenty of gardaí about, including those in the Garda Band, led by Pat Kenny. "So that's how the RTÉ broadcaster supplements his income," said one wag at the barrier. But no, it was Insp Pat Kenny, musical director, who was conducting the band.

If former Olympic athlete Eamonn Coghlan was running the parade route he would have reached the end in less than eight minutes, judging by previous performances. Instead, the Grand Marshal had to be content with a two-hour stint in an open-top car. But he wasn't complaining. "It was absolutely fantastic," he said afterwards. His 85-year-old mother, Kathleen, accompanied him and, "I got a bigger thrill out of bringing her with me," he said.

He was followed by an explosion of colour from 11 pageants from Ireland and farther afield, and 16 marching bands.

With the clampdown on alcohol sales until after the parade, the only six-packs on display on O'Connell Street were the impressive prosthetic ones worn by the MaSamba troupe.

The spectacle ended with a flurry of honking Beetle cars. One canny owner had posted a "for sale" sign, complete with mobile phone number, on the window.

Trying to sell your car in the middle of the national parade. It could only happen in Ireland, on St Patrick's Day.