Go For Gaja

Who is the most dynamic figure behind Italy's wine renaissance? Most people would probably say Angelo Gaja, whose Barberas and Barbarescos make devotees go weak at the knees. That's if they can find them - because these elusive bottles are produced in very limited quantities. Full credit to the Unicorn restaurant for stocking the full selection of Gaja wines (it claims to be the only restaurant in Europe with all 12). The top Barbarescos are £195 a bottle, but you can enjoy the Sitorey Barbera 1995 for £40 and Sito Moresco 1995 for £42. 12B Merrion Court, Dublin 2, 016762182.