Galway's lunatic fringe

There are no Macnas monsters, drums or fireworks at the presentation of the Galway Arts Festival programme

There are no Macnas monsters, drums or fireworks at the presentation of the Galway Arts Festival programme. The mad men and women of the west have yet to arrive. "Ah, it's a bit early for the Galwegians in all fairness," says a cheerful Rose Parkinson, new director of the 23-year-old festival. Fergal McGrath, manager of the 12-day festival, is in before the rest, groomed and punctual for the lunch and the launch. "Yes," says the red-haired man, "I'm the Tuam sham," explaining that those who live outside the town of Tuam are known as "buffs" and those inside are "shams". Noel McHale, another red-head from Galway, says "I've come looking for my friends."

"It's mad all year round (in Galway)," continues Parkinson, looking about her. But all is quiet on the waterfront of Dublin's Financial Services Centre. "But for the two weeks of the festival you have to go up a gear again," she says. Parkinson is especially pleased that the Chicago-based theatre company, Steppenwolf, is coming as part of the festival's international theatre programme. "They've never set foot in Ireland before," she says. "They were on my wish list. They were delighted to come." Tom Conroy, one of the festival's longstanding stalwarts, arrives. He says he's "much too young" to have worked with the festival all of 23 years ago. Still, he's a founder member of Macnas and his involvement continues, as he designed the parade last year.

Three actor friends, laughing and still recovering from a night of partying after the closing performances of The House in the Abbey and Salome at the Gate, are Deirdre Molloy, Eunice McMenamin and Fiona O'Shaughnessy. As they pose for the photographer, they compare their times of lateness after the party. "I got to bed at 7," says one. "I left at 4," says another.

In the midst of the suits is Mikel Murfi, resplendent in a fine bainin jumper, insisting that the little orange design on his geansai is a flower. He is director of the new Macnas show which will be staged in Galway's Leisureland - all the seats will be taken out to make room for the performance. "I'm a west of Ireland person at heart," says the Sligo man. "I have an affinity with lunacy," he explains. Sure, one quick look at that jumper was proof enough.

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That stylish couple Pauline McLynn and husband Richard Cook are perfectly co-ordinated, wearing outfits that feature cranberry. They're gearing up for the Murphy's Cat Laughs Comedy Festival and a myriad other projects, including a rap musical. Stephen Dee, the artist formerly known as the journalist Stephen Dixon, is also present, just back from Glasgow and the opening of his show there. His work will be on view in Galway at Kenny's Gallery during the festival also.

Munching away quietly in the Harbour Master Bar are three men in navy suits. These guests reveal themselves to be top Fianna Failers: Hugh Dolan, the party's financial director and Michael Smyth, a national executive member who happens to be Ardal O'Hanlon's first cousin. They are the guests of Nortel Networks, the main sponsors of this Galway-goes-beserk-festival. And all the while, their host, Michael Forde of Nortel Networks, is busy recording everything for posterity on a little video camcorder.