Spring into summer. That's both a reflection on the season we've at last attained, after that brutal late blast of winter, and an exhortation. Let's celebrate our climb towards the sunny apex of the year with a change of gear. As with clothing, so with drinking. It's time to cast aside the heavyweights and slip into something lighter while we have the chance.
Into mothballs for the next few months go the red thermal liners that have helped to see us snugly through the raw patch. I'm bidding a brief farewell to sturdy clarets - what you might call the well-tailored winter suits of the wine world. With them will go some of those luxuriously rich New World Cabernets - the velvet evening-gowns of a capsule drinking collection. Massive Amarones and Barolos, solidly enveloping as a sheepskin coat, are also about to be sidelined for the summer, along with other chillproof reds.
What is earmarked to take their place? White wines first. It's a well-known fact that white wines split drinkers into two opposed but roughly equal camps, with a division as deep and fundamental as the San Andreas Fault. On one side are those who rarely drink anything else, winter or summer - novice drinkers, they're usually branded somewhat disparagingly by the trade. On the other are the red brigade - more serious (and yes, more snobbish) drinkers who think white wine is for wimps and barely worth bothering about. It's the right time of year, I respectfully suggest, for both sides to shift their ground a bit - the red lovers reappraising refreshing whites and the white-only party taking a few easy steps towards light reds.
If there's one white grape that sums up summer with its distinctive aromas of gooseberries, young nettles and new-mown grass, it's Sauvignon Blanc. Even though Sauvignon is now so popular that it's not unusual to see people gulping it down at Christmas parties, it tastes miles better now. Not only will that zingy freshness go down well in all the heat we hope we're about to have, but Sauvignon's flavours suit a wide range of summer foods, from goat's cheese and asparagus (see below) to crab, scallops and countless salads.
What else is there? Chardonnay remains in the reckoning because it's such a flexible wine, flattering a great many dishes. But whatever you do, don't stop there. I'll be writing over the next few months about Riesling, Chenin Blanc and Semillon - all white grapes with undervalued appeal. In the meantime, northern Italy, Spain and Portugal are well worth scouring for light, fruity and sometimes slightly nutty whites which draw you back for more like a bowl of salted almonds.
If the summer wine fairy could grant me one wish, it would be the same one that I made last year. To see rose cast off its blushingly naff image and sit proudly on lunch tables as a smart partner to light foods, especially cold meats and salads. Beware: there are still a few rather sweet, commercial nasties in circulation which may make you wonder if I've lost my reason. However, the south of France, the Bordeaux region and Spain all yield far more pink treats than we give them credit for.
Now for red wines to suit summery meals. With winemakers the world over turning out softer, easier styles designed for earlier drinking, the choice of light, fruity reds seems to be expanding almost daily. Of all the varietals, Merlot seems poised, like a skilful surfer, to reach the crest of this particular wave and ride giddily forward for heaven knows how long. For my money, Chile s till delivers the best Merlot value allied to the most interesting flavours. There must be at least a dozen tasty Chilean Merlots - maybe more.
But again, I hope you'll venture in other directions as well. I love the light-to-middleweight red wines of Italy's northern half, because of the marked acidity that makes you want to eat another mouthful, then have another sip. Valpolicella Classico and straightforward young Chianti both combine approachability with a pleasant, slightly savoury tang. If you prefer lively acidity wrapped in a softer, fruitier package, then it's time to quell another set of reservations about naffness and reach for Beaujolais.
The further you step towards the barbecue, the more you'll appreciate a bit of extra body - a red of reasonable substance, perhaps with an overlay of smoke to match the cooking, or a peppery character to suit your steak. Young Tempranillos from Spain; gutsy blends of Syrah and Grenache from the south of France; any number of rather less familiar but no less appealing grapes in modern new guises from Portugal . . . these should all do justice to the fry-up without being too heavy or austere.
Choosing this week's selection of bottles, I've been guided by two principles. The first is foodmatching - that fascinating science that can ruin an expensive bottle or turn a cheap one into a treat. Although there are some allrounders in the list, certain wines are suggested specifically because I think they will enhance the flavours of foods we'll soon be enjoying at their best. The second is budget-balancing - that other fascinating science that means you can have a few friends around for supper some sunny evening without overheating your overdraft. All of these wines taste terrific for the money, so splash out.
Summery scenesetter
Dom Prior Douro Branco, Fonseca Guimaraens, 1995 (Mitchells Kildare St and Glasthule, Searsons Monkstown, about £7.50).
A white wine from the Douro, the cradle of port and, more recently, red table wine, is a surprise. When it's as delicious as this one, it's a stunning revelation - fresh and citrussy at first, then broadening out to lingering tropical fruit flavours. If you've ever wondered what silky texture can possibly mean in wine terms, you'll find it here. Lovely as an aperitif, outstanding with grilled fish and good with plenty of salads.
For salmon
Berrys' Reserve White Burgundy NV (Foleys Cabinteely, £9.99).
One of my favourites from the famous London emporium's selection of own-label wines, now on sale in Ireland. A classic Cote de Beaune white, quite soft and buttery but with lively acidity. A wellpriced treat - just like salmon.
For salads
Fortant de France Rose Syrah, Vin de Pays d'Oc, 1997 (very widely available, usually about £5.49).
A new vintage of a brilliant summer standby at a bargain price. You can enjoy this flavoursome rose while you're waiting for food to materialise, but it tastes even better when that moment arrives, partnering salads, vegetables dishes, light meats and even fish like tuna to perfection. Delay no longer: drink pink.
For asparagus
Traverso Sauvignon Blanc Reserva 1996 (Terroirs, £7.99).
Asparagus is blamed for being a stickler to match, but a ripe, luscious Sauvignon Blanc like this polished effort seems to me to echo its aromas without adding any green bitterness into the equation in the way that a Loire Sauvignon might. Very suave and not just for asparagus, either.
For goat's cheese
Domaine de Sarret Sauvignon, Vin de Pays d'Oc 1996 (Grapes of Mirth Rathmines, McCabes, Redmonds, usually £6.99).
Nothing is quite as good with the grassy taste of fresh, mild goat's cheese, as French Sauvignon - either from the Loire or further south. This isn't just another tastealike version. It's a sensational charmer, combining enticing aromas, lovely ripe fruit flavours and wake-me-up, shake-me-up freshness . . . and the long finish points to a much higher price.
For chargrilled chicken or vegetables
Bolla Sangiovese di Romagna 1995 (McCabes, Foleys Cabinteely, Cheers Rathfarnham and soon many other good off-licences, £6.99-£7.49).
The Veronese company Bolla presents a new Sangiovese from Emilia-Romagna further south. All that really matters is that it's an ideal red for summer drinking. See Bottle of the Week.
For lamb
Caliterra Merlot 1996 (some Superquinns, SuperValus/Centras, Spars; McCabes, Kellys Wine Vault Clontarf, Dublin Wine Co Malahide and other outlets, £6.99-£7.59).
Chile's Caliterra range, now relaunched in partnership with Robert Mondavi of California, aims to combine quality and drinkability. This succulent Merlot certainly succeeds, with assertive spicy, minty character (made for lamb!), juicy acidity and decent length.
For barbecued meats
Chateau PechCeleyran, Coteaux de Languedoc La Clape, 1995 (Higgins Clonskeagh, Rowans Rathfarnham, Sweeneys Dorset St and Fairview, Bolands Glasnevin, Kellys Artane, Vineyard Galway, Egans Drogheda, Old Stand Mullingar, Octavius Sligo, O'Keeffes Kilkenny and other outlets, £6.50-£7).
A smashing, peppery finish makes this southern French red a great choice for barbecued steaks or sausages, but it also has lovely soft, berry flavours which make it eminently sippable while you're waiting for the coals to light. For style on a shoestring, one of the all-time greats.