The woman who started a cheese revolution almost 20 years ago was last night celebrating the success story of one of Ireland's smelliest food products. Milleens, described by the judges as "unmissable at five feet", was declared supreme champion at the prestigious British Cheese Awards.
The cheese is produced at Eyeries on the Beara peninsula, Co Cork, by Ms Veronica Steele and Mr Norman Steele, who are at the forefront of Ireland's burgeoning farmhouse cheese industry.
It won against competition from hundreds of other specialist cow, goat and sheep cheeses at the awards' scheme set up to recognise the renaissance of farm-produced cheeses in Britain and Ireland.
The chairman of the awards, Ms Juliet Harbutt, admitted at last night's ceremony in London at which the winners were announced that Milleens might not be a cheese for everyone.
"It's got a very distinctive aroma and it lingers on the pallet," she said. "It's got a very smooth, voluptuous and creamy texture - it's fantastic and very pungent."
She added that the cheese matched the "beautiful, rugged countryside where it's produced".
When Ms Steele began making Milleens from unpasteurised cow's milk in 1978, the Irish farmhouse cheese industry didn't exist. However, others followed her lead and now there are some 50 producers in the country making an estimated £3 million worth of cheese each year.
The Cork couple's win was described as well deserved last night by food writer, Ms Sally McKenna, who said: "It's not that surprising because it's a wonderful cheese and it's very popular in Britain.
"Veronica was the very first to make a farmhouse cheese, as opposed to cheese made by the coops, and it's very appropriate that she and Norman should win such a major award."
Last night's victory is not the first time Milleens - described as a white, soft, Vacherim-style cheese as made in France and Switzerland - has gained international recognition. It is one of five Irish cheeses - with Cashel Blue, Coolea, Croghan and Gubbeen - listed in the latest edition of Steve Jenkins's Cheese Primer, regarded as the bible for US cheese-lovers.
There was also good news last night for a Dutch couple, Mr Dick Willems and Ms Helene Willems, who produce Coolea cheese near Macroom, Co Cork. Their product was named best Irish cheese at the awards ceremony.
