THE RUC man at the Border checkpoint chuckled when we said that we were going to the Sinn Fein ardfheis in Monaghan.
"You're the only ones who have been honest. All the others told me they were just out for a wee drive. I was thinking that this Monaghan was becoming awfully popular."
Security was tight for the Sinn fein conference in the Hillgrove Hotel. There was a bomb attack on the party's office in Monaghan recently and the forces of law and order, both North and South, keep a close eye on republicans anyway.
We breathed a sigh of relief on reaching the hotel, but it didn't last long. The Shinners are big on security now themselves. Republicans with walkietalkies patrolled the grounds.
There was a thorough body search for all journalists, although a woman searcher apologised profusely. "I'm sure you re well used to this in the Six Counties," she said sympathetically.
Another woman rummaged through my handbag. She wanted a press card or some photographic ID. I was then asked to name other people on the Irish Times reporting team.
The Hillgrove is a plush place. The ardfheis was held in a room which normally hosts discos. There was red-white-and-blue lighting - delegates politely declined to point out the colour blunder.
Republican leaders these days have refined taste in decor. There were no pictures of fallen martyrs decorating the walls. The platform was surrounded by sprays of fresh flowers.
"The organisers were delighted with the turnout - up to 1,000 people attended - but the event lacked buzz. "It's a bit dull", admitted a Donegal delegate as he snoozed through a debate.
The frisson of pre-peace process years was missing. There was the odd fiery speech from an unreconstructed delegate, but the leadership's words were carefully measured.
The ardchomhairle successfully asked for motions from Derry supporting "global opposition to capitalism" to be deferred - revolutionary rhetoric doesn't go down too well in Washington. The Pope was, quoted, favourably too, in a debate on poverty.
The ardchomhairle also requested that a Cork motion on drugs be amended to delete "Sinn Fein sees no constructive role far the gardai in combating, drugs
At lunch-time, delegates found themselves in, the grounds of the Hillgrove amidst the tulips and daffodils. Some even wore shades. There was a photo opportunity for Sinn Fein's leading candidates in the forthcoming Westminster elections - Messrs Adams, McGuinness band Doherty.
They" walked up a hill together, but some cameramen didn't get the shots, so the trio did it again. "If they walk up that hill anymore, they will be saying it's a traditional route like the Orangemen," quipped a republican.
Mr McGuinness stopped to speak to a young woman with a crying baby.
"Are you in bad form?" he inquired. "Go on Martin, kiss the baby" his supporters shouted. Mr McGuinness decided it was much more dignified to shake the infant's hand instead. Some politicians will only go so far for a vote.