"Perhaps the greatest wines made in Spain," Wine Spectator rated the early efforts of Alvaro Palacios. If it hadn't been so lavish in its praise, we might not have to pay so much for Alvaro Palacios Les Terrasses, Priorat, 1997 (outlets above, about £316.99). But Priorato, Spain's new viticultural Eden, is charging pretty high prices all round for the intense reds from its steep schist terraces - and unlike some, this one lives up to its promise. Stunningly concentrated, exquisitely balanced, it's voluptuous without being overwhelming. The man's perfectionism shows.