I had temporarily forgotten, until this week, how tasty Alsace wines can be. And I'd temporarily forgotten Pinot Blanc - a grape buried, in this country, under a million tons of Chardonnay. Put them together, in the hands of an organic producer like Domaine Mittnacht, and you get Berrys Own Selection Alsace Pinot Blanc (Berry Bros & Rudd, £8.95). Smoothness, freshness, intense fruit flavours, a long tangy finish . . . and, wonder of wonders, relatively low alcohol. It's versatile enough to go well with seafood, salads, grilled fish, quiches, vegetable dishes, chicken and pork - but I also love it all alone.