IF dilute, tart disasters have put you off anything calling itself Bourgogne Rouge, take a deep breath and try again. Because Bourgogne Rouge, Couvent des Jacobins, Louis Jadot, 1996 (stockists above, usually £9.99) is one of those wines that can genuinely be described as pretty, displaying typical Burgundian charm in a light and lively body. You won't tire of it easily, either. That's where France wins.