Bottle Of The Week

Restaurateurs are no slouches when it comes to putting good-looking but nottoo-costly items on the table. That's one reason why Le Grillaie Vernacchia di San Gimignano, Melini, 1995 (outlets above, £7.49£7.99) is to be found in plenty of eateries but only a couple of wine shops. A pity, as this isn't your usual, pallid, rather insipid Italian white but a wine with immense personality. Ripe, citrus fruit flavours mingle with almonds and hazelnuts and linger as long as Tuscan sunshine. As for the bottle, it's elegant and fun - a svelte heavyweight with a gold cricket on the label. Why a cricket? Apparently because it's a symbol of love in Italy. I love it.