Bottle Of The Week

Suppose you want not just a delicious wine but a name that spells reliability, respectability? Choose Chablis St Martin, Domaine Laroche 1999 (outlets above, usually about £13.50). Although this is now a big outfit, Michel Laroche has steered it to its 150th birthday with the rigour of a small-scale perfectionist. As for the wine - ripe fruit with a smidgeon of honey, tangy freshness, lingering, steely finish - it's what classic Chablis is all about.