ALEXANDER MCQUEEN’S shows in Paris are usually a mix of flamboyant showmanship and outstanding craftsmanship. But his winter collection, presented around a smoking junk heap in a sports stadium at Bercy, tipped the balance of fashion into theatrical costume and became a macabre display of grotesque couture, exquisitely rendered nonetheless.
Called “The Horn of Plenty”, it was a retrospective upending of iconic pieces from his own collections and those of mid 20th century haute couture opening with a burlesque refashioning of Dior’s famous houndstooth check suits, their exaggerated shapes and patterns ridiculed with matching umbrellas as millinery, sometimes worn two at a time.
Victorian full skirted coats, a familiar McQueen motif, were made from bin bag nylon, opera coats from bubble wrap and suits from shaggy Mongolian fake fur or black cock feathers. Shown on models with mouths painted like clowns tottering on tortuous footwear with hats of upturned lampshades, it seemed like a misogynist mockery of fashion, artful mischief making, but drew roars of applause at the finale.
“Did you see anything wearable?” one mystified woman asked another on the way out.
There were many wearable pieces at Chloe for those who can carry off striped blanket style ponchos, oversize camel duffel coats and cuffed tweed trousers with a measure of élan. But it was an uncertain collection hovering between two extremes, those offhand boyish looks and unexciting girly dresses in pleated chiffon or black velvet overloaded with unnecessary details.
Detail is everything in Collette Dinnigan’s collection, an Australian designer who has a wondrous way with lingerie lace and always brings a fresh, feminine approach. It showed in this elegant, womanly collection where fine spidery black lace made for a sexy panel in a silk sheath or was used dramatically layered over shapely ballerina skirts of black silk moiré or tulle with Edwardian style jackets. Beaded borders of silver gave the dark elegance extra sparkle.
Paul Joe, a successful French label founded 14 years ago, is known for its whimsical, easygoing streetwear. The lighthearted collection had the kind of trendy black leather jackets, narrow grey coats and sheaths that make for straightforward winter dressing.
Less tasteful were the dyed fox furs, unflattering navy jumpsuits with pussy bows and sequinned tube dresses which, like everything else, were worn with thigh high leather boots.