BEST BUYS: John Wilson's annual round-up is a must-have for anyone interested in wine
Is it possible to have too much of a good thing? Ask John Wilson. While the rest of us were enjoying the summer he tasted more than 2,000 wines from 72 importers. Wilson - one of the most astute, honest and well-informed commentators - edits The Best of Wine in Ireland, an annual round-up that has become essential if you're interested in wine.
This year 727 bottles made the cut, almost 200 more than last time. "This increase," he writes, "is largely due to the importers being more canny in submitting wines, selecting only those they truly believe are the best in their stable."
One of the canniest is the Wicklow Wine Co (0404-66767), deservedly chosen by Wilson as importer of the year - no small feat for a one-shop operation in a small town. Ben Mason and Michael Anderson bring taste and enthusiasm to the unearthing of fine and unusual wines at reasonable prices.
Mason is particularly strong on Portugal and Germany, championing the great ports and table wines of Dirk Niepoort and the wonderful Rieslings of Georg Breuer; Anderson is an expert on "less well-trodden" parts of France, bringing wines of the measure of Château Court-Les- Mûts Saussignac 2001 (€16.99 for a half-bottle), Wilson's dessert wine of the year. (This and numerous other wines from their stable are available from many leading wine shops.)
Wilson's overall white wine of the year is Grosset Polish Hill Riesling 2005, Jeffrey Grosset's brilliant signature wine from the Clare Valley (see Bottles of the Week, left). His overall red winner is Muga Selección Especial Rioja Reserva 2001 (see left). He selected a gorgeous Pouilly-Fuissé, Château des Rontets Clos Varambon 2003 (Searsons, €23), as the best Old World white. Wilson's best New World red is the beguiling Felton Road Pinot Noir 2004 (€38). His best white under €20 is Springfield Estate Life From Stone Sauvignon Blanc 2005 (€18.50). Wilson's top red under €20 is Torbreck Woodcutter's Shiraz 2004 (O'Briens, €15.49). His best-value white is Marks & Spencer Mineralstein Riesling 2005 (€9.99, see left) and best-value red Golden Kaan Shiraz 2003 (Mace and Spar, €8.99). jbreen@irish-times.ie
• The Best of Wine in Ireland 2007, A&A Farmar, €12.99