White wines feeling the heat

Despite advances in modern winemaking, white grape varities still generally do better in cooler climates

HEAT IS THE REAL enemy of white wine. Grapes grown in hot climates tend to have low acidities, and white wines fermented under a baking sun will be flabby and lacking in aroma and fruit. Because of this, most Australian and other warm climate whites have some form of acidity added, and it is only modern winemaking practices such as early harvesting to retain acidity, picking in the cool of night, and fermenting in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks that allow drinkable white wines to be made.

For these reasons, the entire centre and southern part of Spain was once off-limits for white wine until the arrival of the technological innovations of the past three decades. It is now possible to buy some very well-made, fruit-filled wines from these regions. However, I believe that despite all of this, white grape varieties still generally do better in cooler climates. That racy green fruit and natural crisp citrus acidity is hard to replicate, and virtually all of my favourite whites come from the cooler areas. Despite its image as a sunny holiday destination, Spain does have plenty of cooler areas in the north of the country, and some produce excellent white wines.

Rueda was the first “new” Spanish wine region to burst onto the international wine scene a decade or more ago. Historically famous for producing a wine not dissimilar to sherry, it was only when Rioja producer Marques de Riscal began planting Sauvignon here in the 1970s that things started to pick up. Their wines were (and are) extremely successful and lead to a surge of interest. While Sauvignon is still produced, it is the native Verdejo grape variety that has been receiving the plaudits. As one producer put it to me, “Verdejo will always be special; it is our calling card, and people are very happy to discover it.” Verdejo is very different; handled properly it is crisp and vibrant with a characteristic bitter finish, and flavours of grapefruit (and grapefruit pith) along with some richer peach and pear fruits. The very cold night-time temperatures and hot summer days in Rueda are perfect for producing wines with excellent aroma and well-defined fruit.

Other areas such as the Penedès in Catalunya and Somontano now produce excellent white wines, but it is Galicia that has taken Spain by storm. Rías Baixas is now reasonably well-known in Ireland. The Albariño grape is grown on tiny plots of vineyard along the coastal valleys of Galicia, in the far north-western coast of Spain. The best have a lovely balance of soft easy fruits and an excellent fresh lemony bite. The Galicians are passionate eaters of shellfish, usually served very simply, with a glass of Albariño.

Valdeorras lies inland from Rías Baixas, and is less well-known in this country. I have been smitten by the wines of this region for a couple of years now, and urge you to try them. Vineyards here are even smaller, and holdings scattered all over the region, so the wines can never be cheap. However, the local Godello grape is slowly being recognised as having real interest. These are some of the lightest, most uplifting wines with real charm; proof if needed that great white wine does not always need to be high in alcohol and slathered in oak. jwilson@irishtimes.com

WINES OF THE WEEK

Monsalve, M Jesus de la Hoz Verdejo 2008, Rueda, 12.5%,€12.95.Possibly the gaudiest label I have seen in recent years, a perfect example of Spanish kitsch, and nearly worth the price alone. The wine is pretty serious though, beautifully elegant with persistent but subtle tangy grapefruit and soft fruits. This would go very nicely with sea bass or sea bream. Stockists:Listons, Camden Street, Dublin.; Mortons, Ranelagh; Ennis Butchers, SC Rd; Lilliput, Arbour Hill; 64 Wine, Glasthule; The Wicklow Wine Co, The Wine Boutique, Ringsend; Lilac Wines, Fairview.

Blanco Nieva Verdejo 2008, Rueda, 12.5%, €12.15.Textbook Rueda with its pithy grapefruit and light pears. It is not too aromatic, a good thing in my book, and the fruit is crisp and stylish. This would make for very classy summer drinking. Stockist:Wine Direct, www.winesdirect.ie

Montenovo, Bodegas Val de Sil 2008, Valdeorras, 13%, €16.I featured a more expensive wine from Val de Sil earlier this year, but I was very taken with this at a recent tasting. For a Valdeorras, it is a reasonably-priced, sprightly fresh young wine with delicious pineapple fruits and a lip-smacking finish. Just the sort of thing to drink before dinner, or with salads and seafood. Stockists:Lilliput, Arbour Hill; Listons, Camden St; Ennis Butchers, South Circular Rd; Wicklow Wine Co; Sweeneys, Glasnevin; Lilac Wines, Fairview; Red Island, Skerries; The Wine Boutique, Ringsend; Fallon Byrne, Exchequer St; Power Smullen, Lucan.

Albariño, Rías Baixas, Bagao do Miño 2008, 12.5%, €16.99.This is a very stylish wine, classic Albariño with its rich peachy fruit and lovely lemon zest, finishing bone dry. Eat, as the locals do, with any kind of cold or warm seafood. Stockist:Enowine, Monkstown IFSC.