A new walk through remote parts of MacGillycuddy's Reeks takes in some of our most spectacular mountain scenery, writes JOHN G O'DWYER
HIDDEN in MacGillycuddy’s Reeks is a cluster of Ireland’s loftiest and most majestic peaks – Carrauntoohil, Beenkeragh, Cruach Mhór and the Big Gun. You know some of the names, of course, but you’ve also heard these hills are unforgiving and remote, linked by knife-edge ridges and protected by cliffs that dive alarmingly from airy summits. And while you would appreciate a little familiarity with these iconic mountains, rambling is your game and you’re happy to leave the knee-knocking intensity of high octane climbing to dedicated crag-hoppers.
Fear not, however, for news has recently emanated from Kerry of a new loop walk at the beating heart of MacGillycuddy’s Reeks that simply aches for footfall. And why is this walk special? Well, it is billed as a very real but mostly horizontal mountain experience that gets you close and personal with some of our highest and handsomest hills while still allowing the reassuring comfort of a vertically unassuming trail.
I simply had to check it out and so, on a surprisingly mild January day, I set off to sample the newly developed Cronin’s Yard Loop. From my parking place in the eponymous yard, I headed up the intoxicatingly beautiful Hag’s Glen feeling dwarfed by the awesome surroundings of Ireland’s tallest mountains. A sympathetic path, marked by purple arrows, led me over a footbridge and then along the banks of the busy Gaddagh river. The path then swung from the riverbank and continued upwards beneath the beguiling saw-tooth pinnacles of the east ridge of the Hag’s Glen.
Trapped here by glacial moraine lies the hanging lake of Cummeenapeasta – a lonesome curl of water that was once the scene of a tragic accident. In December 1943, the crew of an American aircraft on a flight from Morocco to England become disorientated and, apparently mistaking Kerry for Cornwall, collided with the wintry mountainside, killing all on board and leaving aircraft parts still strewn in these brooding waters.
Continuing up the glen, I found myself gazing directly into the jaws of the Devil’s Ladder. Despite its intimidating name, this was once an easy green gully that formed part of the usual Carrauntoohil route. The timeless attraction of our highest summit has, however, created severe erosion, rendering this gully ever more unsafe with bouncy boulders and skating-rink screes. These dangers are now leading climbers to seek other ascent routes and the Kerry Mountain Rescue team to advise that the Devil’s Ladder should now be ascended with extreme caution.
My path now dropped to its objective at Lough Callee (the lake of the hag) which may be named after a woman who, according to renowned Kerry hillwalker Seán Ó Súilleabháin, lived here in the early part of the 19th century. Whatever the origin of the name, this lakeshore is a wonderful place to tarry and let time drift past in slow motion and so I took the time to gaze upwards at the wonderfully complex rock architecture on the northeastern face of Carrauntoohil.
On a sharp corner of the mountain lies the bold line of improbably named Primroses Ridge, which is actually regarded as the most difficult of Ireland’s defined mountain ridges. To the right of Primroses, I could just make out the less difficult but far more famous Howling Ridge. This was first ascended by local climbers Con Moriarty and John Cronin in 1987. Incredibly they had set out to do some ice-climbing and almost accidentally discovered a previously unknown but beautifully delicate ridge on our highest mountain, which has tantalised and terrorised would-be climbers in almost equal measure ever since.
Eventually, with some reluctance, I rose and followed the stony path to a ford on the Gaddagh river. Later I re-crossed the Gaddagh by a newly constructed bridge that returned me conveniently to my original path, which I then followed directly to Cronin’s Yard and a welcome mug of coffee by the generous fire in the well-appointed tearooms.
Cronin's Yard loop walk
STARTING POINTLeave Killarney by the N72. At Fossa turn left for the Gap of Dunloe. Continue, leaving the Gap on your left until you see a finger sign (left) for Carrauntoohil. This minor road leads to Cronin's Yard.
SUITABILITYThe route is way marked and presents little in the way of navigational difficulties. However, the terrain is sometimes quite uneven and, in mist, it is possible to miss the marker poles on open mountainside. Wear sturdy boots, carry a rain jacket and warm clothing.
TIMEAbout 2.5 hours to complete the loop.
MAPSHarvey Superwalker 1:30,000 MacGillycuddy's Reeks. Ordnance Survey Ireland: 1:50,000 Discovery Series Sheet 78.
ACCOMMODATIONTravel Inn Hotel, Killarney (064-6623600 or travelinn.ie) has a special offer suitable for small walking groups. A two-bedroom, six-bed suite for BB costs €24pps. Or phone Killarney Tourist Office (064–6631633) for more.