Go Citybreak:Stockholm is a young and trendy city full of affordable and quirky cafes and restaurants. You won't be disappointed, writes Adrienne Cullen
STOCKHOLM IS ONE of those northern European cities that most Irish tourists perceive as too expensive – but it’s cheaper than Dublin, even more so now the Swedish currency is rated at 10 kronor to the euro. For shopping, that’s equivalent to a 20 per cent discount on everything. You can also buy a cheap flight to the city from Dublin.
This new accessibility means we can expand our knowledge of Sweden beyond Ikea, Saab and Volvo, the Bergmans and entertainment in the august form of Sesame Street’s Swedish Chef. And, of course, there are the Nobel prizes awarded in the capital’s magnificent city hall, the Stadshuset, on December 10th each year (although, for historical reasons, the Nobel Peace Prize is presented in the Norwegian capital, Oslo).
But in fact that’s not a bad overview at all. It’s more than enough to be chewing over as your aircraft banks to present you with a fabulously promising view of the 14 islands of the archipelago on which Stockholm is built and the 40 bridges by which it is connected.
It’s a young and trendy city full of affordable and quirky cafes and restaurants, where getting around is easy because you never have to wait more than three minutes for a bus.
Stockholm’s T-bana, or metro, isn’t just a way of getting around: it’s a visitor attraction known as the “world’s longest art gallery”. Most of the 100 stations are individual works of art, each uniquely painted, sculpted or decorated with mosaics.
If you’re a reasonably seasoned traveller, this stunning city’s intricate system of waterways will remind you immediately of Amsterdam or even Venice – and if that sets an extraordinarily high standard, don’t worry: you won’t be disappointed.
To soak up the atmosphere, you’ll probably head first for the Old Town – Gamla Stan – which is renowned for its cobbled alleys, beautiful houses, alluring boutiques and inviting cafes and restaurants. Gamla Stan is a combination of London as Dickens imagined it and SoHo in New York.
As Gamla Stan is on one of the city’s islands it has a waterfront – a good place to pick up a waterbus to cruise around the archipelago. (Stockholm residents never mind being asked for directions, and once you buy your multitrip ticket they’ll tell you whether a bus or boat is better for your route.)
Once that’s arranged, head for the main plaza, Stortorget, or Big Square, the historical centre from which the rest of the city grew over the centuries.
Stortorget is visited by tens of thousands of tourists a year, so don’t expect to have it to yourself, but winter is a great time to visit. Fewer tourists, better value and the beauty of seeing this city blanketed in snow. It’s home to Stockholm’s Christmas Market, and it’s here that you’ll find the Stock Exchange Building, which houses the Swedish Academy, the Nobel Museum and the Nobel Library.
It’s as well to know that also on Gamla Stan you’ll find two of the city’s other main landmarks. One is Kungliga Slottet, one of the largest palaces in Europe and official residence of the king of Sweden, which is open to the public. The other is Storkyrkan, Stockholm’s 700- year-old cathedral, the oldest building in the city, where you’ll find the remarkable statue of Saint George and the Dragon by Bernt Notke. The palace’s proximity to the cathedral has been ideal over the years for the Swedish royals, who have traditionally been both married and crowned there.
Gamla Stan could keep anyone going for a week, but you’ll also want to visit City Hall to see the Blue Hall, which hosts the Nobel banquet, and the Golden Hall, where the ball is held afterwards.
If you like museum crawls, this is the city for you. Try the Vasa Museum – Vasamuseet – where you can see the restored 17th-century warship Vasa, which sank on its maiden voyage, in 1628, and was salvaged 333 years later, in 1961. Or you can visit Skansen, an open-air museum with an excellent zoo . . . or the Museum of Modern Art . . . or the National Museum of Fine Arts . . . or the Milles Museum, where you can see the sculptures of Carl Milles.
And when you’ve had enough of the serious side, head for Gröna Lund, the amusement park on the island of Djurgarden. This is one of Sweden’s most popular attractions, and the kids will love it. Try the roller coaster, the giant windmill, the ghost house and the dodgems.
And one last thing: don’t forget to get an unforgettable aerial view of this unforgettable city from the Kaknäs TV tower, 34 storeys and 150m high. You can almost see Dublin.
Where to stay, eat and go if you're in the Swedish capital for a weekend
5 places to stay
Radisson SAS Royal Viking Hotel. Vasagatan 1, 00-46-8-50654000, www.royalviking.stockholm.radissonsas.com. One of Stockholm's most central hotels, with stunning views over the city from the Sky Bar. Rates from about €120 for a single to €260 for a junior suite.
Grand Hôtel. Södra Blasieholmshamnen 8, 00-46-8-6793500, www.grandhotel.se. Built in 1874, this is one of Stockholms landmark buildings. A small single costs about €300 per night; an executive suite with harbour views is €1,500.
Hotel Rival. Mariatorget 3, 00-46-8-545-78900, www.rival.se. All 99 rooms are individually designed by owner Benny Andersson. This centrally located boutique hotel has its own cinema. Single standard rooms start at about €150; expect to pay about €300 for a deluxe with a balcony.
Mornington Hotel. Nybrogatan 53, 00-46-8-507-33000, www.mornington.se. A four-star hotel in a quiet spot in Östermalm, a short walk from Stureplan Square and the Royal Dramatic Theatre. The residents' lounge has a library of 4,000 books. Rates from €130 to €160.
Clarion Hotel Sign. Östra Järnvägsgatan 35. 00-46-8-6769800, www.clarionsign.com. Designed by the renowned Swedish architecht Gert Wingardh, Stockholm's largest hotel has furnishings by design icons Arne Jacobsen, Bruno Mathsson and Alvar Aalto. The ground-floor bar is a city hot spot in itself; the eighth floor features the Selma City Spa, complete with sauna and rooftop swimming pool.
5 places to eat
Wedholms Fisk. Nybrokajen 17, 00-46-8-6117874, www.wedholmsfisk.se. One of the city's oldest and best-known restaurants. Greta Garbo, disguised as "Harriet Brown", came here during secret visits to her hometown.
Mälardrottningen. Riddarholmen, Gamla Stan, 00-46-8-54518780, www.malardrottningen.se. Mälardrottningen is a luxury yacht built in 1924 for a multimillionaire named CKG Billings; it was later an 18th-birthday present to Woolworth heiress Barbara Hutton from her father.
Lisa Elmquist. Nybrogatan 31, 00-46-8-553-40410. This fish restaurant, owned by one of the city's largest seafood wholesalers, is located in the middle of Stockholm's food market, so the ingredients don't come any fresher.
F12. Fredsgatan 12, 00-46-8-248052, www.f12.se. One of the city's premier restaurants, in the Royal Academy of Arts building. Its ultrasophisticated minimalist interior attracts a seriously classy clientele.
Källaran Aurora. Munkbron 11, 00-46-8-219359, www.aurora-kallaren.com. At the edge of the old city, this restaurant serves an old-fashioned smorgasbord featuring about 100 different foods. You must go to the buffet seven times, eating seven courses, according to tradition. It's in the cellar of a charming restored 17th-century house, where a beautiful library upstairs has sofas to lounge on both before and after dining.
5 places to go
Skansen. Djurgardsslätten 49-51, 00-46-8-4428000, www.skansen.se. This open-air museum, with views over the city, has examples of living Swedish architecture dating back to the 16th century, as well as a zoo featuring wolves and deer, plus regular open-air shows that are included with the price of admission.The Vasa Museum is also here, and it's not to be missed.
Royal Palace. Slottsbacken 1, Gamla Stan, www.royalcourt.se/ royalcourt/theroyalpalaces. The palace is one of the most notable baroque buildings in northern Europe. Every year the king opens a new room to the public.
Kungsträdgarden. Hamngatan, 00-46-8- 55510090. During the Middle Ages this popular park was the kitchen garden of the Royal Palace. Almost 150 musical performances are held in the gardens each year, and in the winter it's Stockholm's favourite ice-skating venue.
Nationalmuseum. Södra Blasieholmshamnen, 00-46-8-51954300, www.nationalmuseum.se. This is Sweden's premier museum of art and design, with works by its foremost painters, as well as Rembrandt, Goya, Rubens, Renoir, Degas and Gauguin.
Absolut Icebar Stockholm. Nordic Sea Hotel, Vasaplan, 00-46-8-50563124, www.nordicseahotel.se. You won't believe the beauty of this bar sculpted entirely of ice – chairs and glasses included. Water from the River Torne has been used, making the ice as transparent as glass. You're allowed only 40 minutes in the bar (special clothing provided) and should book in advance.
Where to shop
You're looking for Gallerian (Hamngatan 37, in the city centre, www.gallerian.se). There are more than 60 shops here: all the big names in clothes and jewellery, as well as international Swedish brands.
Check out
Tranan. Karlbergsvägen 14 (Odenplan district), 00-46-8-52728100, www.tranan.se. This is where you'll find the coolest DJs in Stockholm. The music varies from dance to RB to soul, and it's the main venue for visiting celebrities such as Tom Waits, Lloyd Cole and Digital Underground.
Cool coffee break
Chokladkoppen. Stortorget 20, 00-46-8-203170. Just the place to stop when you're exploring Gamla Stan, this cafe has a great array of coffees and is rightly famous for its hot chocolate – which you must have with a cinnamon bun.
What to avoid
Buying cut-price tickets online for the new Abba museum. The opening has been put on hold. Look out for the memorabilia on tour instead. (www.abbamuseum.com).
For more
There's great local information on www.stockholmtown.com, and the Swedish Tourism Trade Association runs the huge Swedish Information Smorgasbord (
www.sverigeturism.se/smorgasbord).
Go there
SAS (www.flysas.ie) flies from Dublin to Stockholm; from €59 one-way, including taxes, if booked between January 22nd and February 3rd for travel from March 1st to June 30th. Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) flies to Skavsta Airport, 100km from Stockholm, from €29 one-way plus taxes (about €53 in total).