A walk for the weekend: Carrauntoohil

In summer conditions, reaching the roof of England, Scotland or Wales presents few problems. Scafell Pike, Ben Nevis and Snowdon have defined tracks requiring no more than fitness and route finding ability. Carrauntoohil is however, more enigmatic, offering a variety of ascent routes, none of which can be considered totally straightforward. Best known is the deliciously titled Devil’s Ladder – a highly eroded and ever mutating gully. Difficulties, particularly in the exit section, vary with erosion but sometimes can seem akin to ascending ball-bearings. An alternative is Bóthar na Gige, but this zig-zag path requires greater effort and, is itself, often slippery and eroded.

A straightforward but arduous approach from the west crosses the summit of Caher, Ireland’s third highest mountain, but in poor weather walkers are exposed to the elements for a much longer time. My favourite route for least difficulty and most “wow” starts from Cronin’s Yard, where bathrooms and tearooms are provided. Immediately, it is up the Hag’s Glen, which is dramatically surrounded by Ireland’s highest mountains.

After crossing two bridges, I tag a track upwards while enjoying views of Carrauntoohil’s handsome profile. On reaching a stream, I don’t cross but follow a track beneath the great pinnacle of Stumpa an tSaimh. Easy scrambling over rocky ledges now leads to a sublime hanging valley boasting a spectacular waterfall. Knowing that a head-on ascent beside this tumbling torrent is inadvisable, I follow a contouring path left beneath the great brooding north face of Carrauntoohil to reach a higher valley. Here, a steep ascent takes me to the shores of Cummeenoughter – reputedly Ireland’s highest lake. The awe-inspiring scenery now continues as I ascend the great, green, ramp of O’Sheas Gully.

Emerging at a grassy col, I will (hopefully) be greeted by the majestic mountains overlooking the Coumloughra valley. Otherwise, the sublime scenery will remain just a murky rumour and, for the first time, I will be buffeted by the prevailing south-westerly winds. Either way, it is left and up the final, shattered rocky staircase leading to the Holy Year Cross marking Carrauntoohil summit.

On a clear day, the views are beguiling. North-west is the Dingle Peninsula; south-west lies Kenmare Bay and the Caha mountains in west Cork, while immediately north a spectacular ridge connects with muscular Beenkeragh, Ireland’s second tallest mountain. The time then comes to consider the descent. Retracing my steps is an option, but I prefer variety. In any case, the O’Shea route is more difficult in descent as the steepness and downward scrambling becomes intimidating.

The easiest escape is, I believe, to follow the cairned route leading roughly south-east to the head of the Devil’s Ladder. The top is always negotiated with great care, but further down the slope eases and I can relax. Gaining the foot of the Ladder then makes me feel home and hosed, for a well-defined track leads me back for steaming coffee in Cronin’s Tearooms.