The finer wines of an old reliable

WINE: Chablis is bone dry and has more minerality than other Chardonnay, making it a perfect match for seafood

FOLLOWING ON from a piece on Fleurie two weeks ago, this week I will take a look at another restaurant favourite, Chablis premier cru. It may not be as popular as in times past, but it still sells briskly in restaurants and shops around the country. Chapter One restaurant lists no fewer than six Chablis, including two grands crus and two premier crus.

Climate and soil shape all Chablis and make it the unique wine it is. The region lies several hours’ drive north of Burgundy proper, closer to parts of Champagne. The climate here is cold, often bitterly so in winter, and in poor years grapes can have difficulty ripening fully, although with global warming, this is becoming less of a problem. But this is most certainly cool-climate viticulture. There are two types of soil: Kimmeridgian and Portlandian. The first is a white clay mixed with lime. The white cliffs of Dover are made of it, and the village of Kimmeridge in England is named after it. Portlandian is also a limestone. Both retain moisture but drain perfectly. The best soils in Chablis (and every millimetre of soil has been examined in depth) are Portlandian, with a deep Kimmeridgian cap. Apparently, wines made on pure Portlandian soil can be good but will not last as long.

If all this talk of soil seems a little nerdish, remember that in Chablis, soil is vital in determining the quality of the wine. The region is divided into four divisions. The very lowest is petit Chablis, rarely worth the money, in my opinion. Next up is Chablis villages, production of which has expanded greatly over the past two decades. Quality varies, with price being a useful indicator, but basic Chablis can be very good. The great wines of Chablis all come from the premier and grand cru vineyards. Virtually all of the premiers crus are on southeast or southwest facing slopes, taking advantage of the better exposition to ripen grapes better. There are 40 premier cru names, but less than 20 are in common use. It is generally accepted that the greatest of these all lie beside the seven grand- cru vineyards above the town of Chablis, or over the other side of the valley facing them. The premier cru boundaries were expanded hugely in the 1960s and 1970s, causing great controversy and infighting among the growers. Certainly, there is now a huge gap between the best and the rest. Premier cru Chablis should always be richer and more concentrated than basic Chablis.

Chablis is a discreet wine, never big or bold. With age it can take on huge complexity, but always retains an austerity and crisp minerality. There are still a few winemakers who age it in new oak (including some of the very best), but for most, the whole point of Chablis is the fruit. Pale in colour, light straw, sometimes with hints of green when young, it is a bone dry wine, sometimes mouth-puckering. It can be a shock to the system, sending a shiver down your spine. Stones and minerals feature strongly, as do green apples and, with some people, wet wool. Chablis tends to fair badly in comparison to other Chardonnays (all Chablis is 100 per cent Chardonnay) in blind tastings; alongside bigger, richer wines, it seems acidic and watery. But drunk with food, it can be a revelation, not just with its traditional partner seafood (and oysters, in particular) but also with cheese (most Chablis producers serve delicious, light, cheesy choux pastry puffs, Gougères, at their tastings), fatty charcuterie, ham and chicken. It also provides a great contrast to rich creamy sauces. Locally, it is often served with snails. My favourite is sole, John Dory or turbot with a buttery sauce.

Chablis premier cru usually sells at around €25-30, occasionally under €20, relatively cheap in comparison to the rest of Burgundy where most premier crus are €40 or more a bottle. I got a bit carried away putting together my Chablis premier-cru tasting. It was a collection of 20 wines, from the most highly rated and the largest producers. Overall, there were very few poor wines; in addition to those below, I enjoyed the following producers, some very widely available: Jean Marc Brocard, Bernard Defaix, La Chablisienne, Tremblay, Colombier, Joseph Drouhin, Pommier, Séguinet-Bordet, Jean-Pierre Grossot, Bois d’Yver, and Geoffroy.

WINES OF THE WEEK

Chablis 1er cru Vaillons 2007 Domaine Jean-Paul Benoît Droin, 13%, €26.45

A very fresh, cool nose of lemons and sherbet. Very stylish and classy, with great concentration of rich fruit, well-integrated acidity, and good crisp length. I like this a lot. Stockist: Louis Albrouze, available nationwide through www.louisalbrouze.com

Chablis 1er cru L'Homme Mort 2006 Frédéric Guéguen, 13%, €34

This was a new name to me, but all of three of his wines showed very well in the tasting. Apparently Guéguen worked for Brocard until recently. Classic mineral and flint nose; superb, clean, just-ripe green and yellow apples, with a really classy edge; quite delicate, but amazingly intense and long. Great purity of fruit. Stockists: Vanilla Grape, Kenmare, Co Kerry or charles@nomadwineimporters.com

Chablis 1er cru Fôret 2006 Domaine François Raveneau, 13%, €43.50

One of the gods of Chablis as far as I am concerned. I have built up a mini collection of Raveneau wines over the years. In recent years, they have joined the ranks of the most sought-after wines, and sadly far more expensive. In their youth, you wonder if you are missing something, but generally with age they take on magnificent, complex flavours of mushroom and grilled nuts. The Fôret is rich, with superb concentrated quince fruits and a touch of spice; there is a lovely, long mineral finish. This is brilliant wine, but calls out for a few years' bottle-age. Stockists: Wicklow Arms Off-Licence, Delgany; O'Donovan's, Cork; Redmond's, Ranelagh; Thomas's Deli, Foxrock; Sweeney's, Glasnevin; McCabes, Mount Merrion; The Gables, Foxrock; Donnybrook Fair, all Dublin.

Chablis 1er cru Les Fourchaumes Vieilles Vignes 2006 Domaine Laroche, 13%, €34.99

Lovely, broad, ripe nose with some grilled nuts; complex wine with a lanolin richness and great persistence. One of the best in the tasting, and a wine that improved each time I tasted it. Stockists: Carry-Out off-licences nationwide