Hungry Hill (682m) is one of the most distinctive mountains in the southwest. As you approach it along the road to Adrigole, its formidable east face, with its great rock buttresses and deep dark hollows, make for a mesmerising view.
There are many routes to the summit; some the preserve of rock climbers, others that involve varying amounts of scrambling can give an exhilarating day out. But what if you just want a straightforward trundle to the top?
Bearing in mind there is nothing straightforward about any route on Beara, the walk-in from the top of the Healy Pass is possibly the easiest way to access the summit of this formidable mountain.
It may feel like cheating to be starting at 300m but there are a lot of ups and downs on this route and it is certainly not a soft-option ascent. This is a glacially scoured landscape and the moving ice laid bare the long ribs of rock that are now interspersed with patches of bog. It is a trackless waste and a fine test of navigation in bad visibility so pick a clear day for your trip.
The first leg to Spot Height 348m is relatively short and after the long dry spell the patches of bog were nice and springy.
From the top, there is a superb view down the Glanmore Valley with the waters of Glanmore Lake sparkling in the shafts of sunlight which were being rapidly closed down as cloud began to build up.
From here the route wound its way south to a small plateau and then south west on to Coombane (510m) from where there is a view down on Adrigole Harbour and the broad reaches of Bantry Bay.
The next leg leads to Derryclancy (554m). Again remember that the terrain does not allow you to walk in a straight line. In fact, two people walking a few hundred meters apart will take different routes as they close in on the next summit. Derryclancy affords a view down into the upper reaches of Glanmore, a great rockbound coom broken only by a cluster of rich green fields and three farm houses.
It is awesome to think of the back-breaking work that went into the clearing of this fertile oasis and sad to think that like other small settlements it may eventually be abandoned and these fine pastures will be invaded by bracken.
From Derryclancy the direct route to the summit of Hungry Hill leads on to the cliffs so it is best to head for the end of the northern spur of the mountain where there is an easy ascent with no rock clambering involved.
The summit is a surprise; a broad flat boggy plateau with hardly a rock in sight. Needless to mention the all-around view is outstanding.
Retrace your steps, bearing in mind that you are unlikely to pass any of the boot marks of your outward journey. But keep to the top of the ridge and you won’t go far wrong.
Hungry Hill, Beara Peninsula, Co Cork
Map: Ordnance Survey. Discovery Series. 1:50,000. Sheet 84
Start and finish: the top of the Healy Pass.
Grid reference: V 786 535
How to get there: the Healy Pass is located midway on the R574 which links Adrigole (R572) on the south side of the Peninsula with Lauragh (R571) on the north side.
Time: five hours
Distance: 12km
Total ascent: 700m
Suitability: hard. Walking boots, map, compass and raingear required
Food and accommodation: Glengarriff and Castletownbere
