The migration of people, in particular from the Middle East, seems to be a great cause for concern in Europe in the past few years. At every moment, we turn, afraid of the arrival of the other. Are we worried about our identity? About our own heritage? Or is it just a primordial fear related to space and possession?
In truth, the migration of people has been ongoing since we walked out of Africa about 100,000 years ago. We’ve all been travelling since then. But what about food? Doesn’t that migrate as well?
I recall the first time I tasted Italian food, in the mid-1980s. I remember my whole food world being shattered, opening itself up and out in the most pleasurable and wholesome way. Do you recall the first time you learned about Japanese food? Or the first time you tasted tapas in Barcelona?
These are only good memories. So how is it that when people migrate, they are greeted with fear and loathing. How can I sit down and enjoy a tabbouleh in Ard Bia in Galway, staring at the Corrib, and not feel like I am elsewhere? Food transports us to other places.
Try this: hang some fresh yogurt in a muslin bag over a sieve overnight, until the moisture drains away. This is called labneh. It is a simple and easy fresh cheese originating from the Middle East. You can add salt and spices, such as fennel seeds, caraway seeds or cumin seeds. Toast them beforehand and use sparingly.
You can tie the muslin bag and lay something heavy on top to make the cheese more spreadable. This cheesy yoghurt came about because of the hot conditions in the Middle East. You can spread it on crackers or serve it on top of couscous. I think the recent interest in Middle Eastern cooking should reflect our interest in and respect for the people fleeing from there. Let’s share some Irish yogurt with them.
