Meal Ticket: Tap House, Dublin 6

Using your mobile to illuminate the menu is taking “atmosphere” a little too far.

The former Russell’s pub in the centre of Ranelagh had a complete makeover about 18 months ago, emerging as (yet another) craft beer house. It’s been doing well though and remains a busy spot in the centre of the village.

Service is excellent, however it’s painfully dark here in the evenings, with mood lighting that just made us moody. Using your mobile to illuminate the menu is taking “atmosphere” a little too far.

What we did decipher on the menu included sliders (€4 each, three for a tenner), small plates for€9 including pil pil prawns on ciabbata, meatballs with tomato sauce, baby back ribs and slaw. Big plates (all €12) include a good looking fishy ramen; fish tacos were good with very large pieces of fresh haddock, barely coated in a light batter with spiced salsa in soft flour tortillas.

"Kev’s mussels" (thankfully not Kev’s muscles) were served with lots of rosemary, habanero and sake (€9). A little dry but we sopped up as much of the sauce as we could with some leftover bread.

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The hit was a po-boy; the much-mangled New Orleans sandwich of fried prawns in a soft roll with tomato, lettuce and mustardy mayo (€12). This was very good - huge, perfectly cooked prawns, a light, spicy batter and fresh salad, with a bowl of well seasoned apple, fennel and red cabbage slaw on the side.

Almost worth losing your eyesight for.

Rachel Collins

Rachel Collins

Rachel Collins is a former editor of the Irish Times Magazine