In the summer of 2020, I was offered a language bursary through the Irish Cultural Centre on tiny, rue des Irlandais, in the heart of Paris's 5th arrondissement. Due to the pandemic, the course was postponed until this August. I arrived in the city with the intention of staying for one month to improve my French, but I am still here.
Relocating to Paris was serendipitous. Working remotely was not something I had considered possible before the pandemic, but now that I spend so much time in front of my laptop, a view of Notre Dame from my window is a welcome change of scenery.
Paris has a deserved reputation for its food and wine culture; the appreciation of it is part of the Parisian DNA. It’s not unusual to have lengthy conversations about cheese with casual acquaintances in random bars. I’m not sure if this is how amorous Parisian’s lure unsuspecting foreigners back to their flats, but the promise of extraordinary Comté has to rank as one of the better chat-up lines I’ve heard.
Watching French men eat dessert is a specific delight. Each savoured bite, accompanied by gestures and reveries about their grands-mères, form a particular form of delicious theatre. I’m an observer here; not quite a tourist anymore but certainly not a local. To eat well in Paris, I keep my eyes peeled. It’s easy to decide what to order by seeing what’s on other people’s plates and gauging their reactions. Parisian don’t keep their opinions to themselves.
Fresh, seasonal ingredients are at the heart of the cuisine here, so I’d suggest staying somewhere with a small kitchen or at least a fridge. Browsing markets to pick up something for lunch or popping into a fromagerie will give you a taste of how Parisians really eat. You’ll find quality products even in supermarkets and it’s nice to browse the shelves and play spot the difference between items here and at home. I’ve found that prices are not standard; the bigger the branch, the keener the prices, so be prepared to pay a bit more in smaller convenience stores than in the larger versions of the same chains.
People love to picnic here. The banks of the Seine or the Canal Saint-Martin are good locations for people watching and dining en plein air. All you need is a bottle of something nice, some bread and cheese. With bread in mind, at the boulangerie take care to order, “une baguette tradition, s’il vous plaît”or just “une tradition”. Demand for the French baguette means there are versions made with low-cost ingredients that stale quickly; it’s worth paying a few cent more for bread made using traditional methods.
The mayor of Paris, Anne Hidalgo, is an active proponent of the 15-minute city, an urban residential concept inspired by French-Colombian scientist Carlos Moreno. This approach to city planning means that most daily necessities are accessible from a person's home in 15 minutes by walking or cycling. All manner of shops occupy the ground floors of most buildings; there are bistros, cafes and bakeries on almost every corner, your local one will be just as good as one across town.
While good food can be found easily and close by, I’ve discovered some places that are worth seeking out.
L’Ami Jean (27 rue Malar, Paris 75007) showcases generously portioned Basque-inspired fare in a convivial diningroom with some shared table; leave room for the house special rice pudding served with caramel and nougatine.
For a posh but relaxed lunch, Restaurant Anne (28 Place des Vosges, Paris 75003) is a treat. The €49 set lunch is excellent value for a Michelin-star restaurant. The wine list is beautifully curated with a tidy and thoughtful selection of wine for different budgets.
Forest at the Palais de Tokyo (13 Av. du Président Wilson Paris 75116) is imaginative and delicious with helpful, friendly staff and interesting drinks. The design and location (one of the best views of the Eiffel Tower from the terrace) make this restaurant unique and worth the spend.
Near Gare de L’Est is Les Enfants Perdu (9 rue des Récollets, Paris 75010) delisious wines and tasty seasonal food in a relaxed and cosy setting.
Chez Janou (2 rue Roger Verlomme, Paris 75003) is a bustling Provençal restaurant with a tasty menu (don’t miss the chocolate mousse) and a vast selection of pastis.
Double Dragon (52 rue Saint-Maur Paris 75011) is that rare find of an Asian restaurant with a cracking wine list. Go hungry or with friends and order the deep-fried pork hock. If you can’t get there close to opening time, wait until about 9:30pm.
Drinks
L’Etiquette (10 rue Jean du Bellay, Île Saint Louis, Paris 75004 ) is my favourite wine shop. The owner, Hervé Lethielleux, only stocks low-intervention, natural wines. There is always a bottle of something interesting to try if you want to stay for a glass.
Paris has excellent cocktail bars. In Pigalle, there are some notable spots. For relaxed, sophisticated drinks, check out Lulu White Drinking Club (12 rue Frochot, Paris 75009). If you are looking for somewhere with more of a buzz just next door, you’ll find Dirty Dick (10 rue Frochot, Paris 75009), a tiki-inspired bar with dangerously good rum cocktails. Sister Midnight (4 rue Viollet-le-Duc, Paris 75009) has superb drinks, and in the 10th, Le Syndicat (51 rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, Paris 75010) is worth a visit.
Susan Boyle is a freelance drinks consultant, writer and researcher
