CULINARY PARIS:Heading to Paris? Here are TV chef Rachel Khoo's favourite shops, bistros and markets in the city, writes DANIELLE MORAN
IF THE TRUE SOUL of France is said to lie in the country’s cuisine, then there is no better person with whom to tour the Parisian capital, and dining table, than charismatic chef, Rachel Khoo. She’s exploded onto our screens with her signature blend of bold, bright colours and tempting, delicate patisserie.
French food can conjure up images of stuffiness or regimented routine, but Cordon Bleu-trained Khoo takes classic French techniques and recipes, deconstructs them, and adds her own je ne sais quoi, using techniques that are friendly to small kitchens.
“I’m not afraid of cooking my version of French classics,” she says. “I have no French mother, grandmother, or boyfriend or any other connection to France. I think, if you have that French tradition, and your grandmother cooked a dish one way, it’s harder to change it. But I think, who cares, I’m going to do it my way.” And Khoo’s way is that of exciting, fresh ingredients which she picks up regularly at some of Paris’s best food markets. Full of colourful, fresh ingredients, the marché d’Aligre on Place Aligre and the marché Place du President Wilson (Wednesdays and Saturdays) are definite stops for any foodies, while the Marché des Enfants Rouges in the stylish Marais is one of the city’s oldest.
“The produce is always amazing,” Khoo says. “And it is like being in a sweet shop, surrounded by all the bright colours of the vegetables.” Her favourite treat to pick up at these foodie carnivals? Gariguette strawberries, she says. This classic variety is in season and boasts a great perfume and a slight acidic note. Be prepared to pay a little extra for these pointy strawberries, but Khoo insists they are worth it. “Honestly, it’s just like eating sweets. You can just devour them.” They also work well in a strawberry tart, or just plain with crème fraiche if you can’t wait.
Le Baron Rouge at 1, rue Théophile Roussel, is the perfect post-Aligre market stop-off. A carafe of wine and a plate of oysters provide an excellent method of rejuvenation after a walk through the markets, before starting to think of patisserie. For those needing something with a little kick, Khoo recommends the strong coffee of La Caféothéque at 52, rue de l’Hotel de Ville.
Cooks who could only dream of attending a Cordon Bleu course will find some charming Parisian patisserie souvenirs in La Cocotte, a quirky store at 5, rue Paul Bert, which Khoo credits with giving her her first culinary break. Sadly, Khoo’s cupcakes and patisserie treats are no longer available, but La Cocotte stocks everything that you need to create your own little Paris kitchen. If there is still space in your suitcase, head to E. Dehillerin at 20, rue Coquilliére and prepare to struggle to leave without copper pans and patisserie moulds.
Khoo’s culinary training may explain her enviable skill of emerging from the kitchen without a covering of flours on her clothes and her bright, classic sense of style matches that of the dishes she creates. Her 1950s-style dresses, with colourful flowers and prints, paired with pretty short cardigans, echo her cheery disposition and her determination to do things “my way” – and are inspiring many of her newfound fans. Her style, she says, evolved in her mid-20s and was borne of necessity, as she had little money when she moved to Paris. “I’ve always found the most interesting designs at vintage shops whenever I’ve been looking for bright colours or prints. When it is grey outside, you want something colourful.” Coiffeur Vintage, 32, rue de Rosiers; Free ‘P’ Star, 8, rue Ste-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie and Fripes Star, at 1, rue de la Verrerie, will all be able to fill any desire for colourful, classic dresses a la Khoo. As for her signature red lipstick; it’s Mac’s Russian Red.
Diners looking for a table at Khoo’s Little Paris Kitchen, however, will be disappointed. Opened as a way for the chef to test new recipes on the public, the publication of her book means the restaurant has closed and her apartment is now hers, and hers alone. She does however, offer a recommendation for Septime, 16, rue de Charonne, for its colourful and artistic set menu and, for those looking for the quintessentially Parisian bistro, she points to Le Bistrot Paul Bert at 18, rue Paul Bert.
The Little Paris Kitchen, by Rachel Khoo, is published by Penguin (£20)
