Macho Malbec

WINE: A wine that's so masculine, it can't be coincidental that its two great producers, south west France and Argentina, are handy on the rugby pitch

THERE IS SOMETHINGirresistibly macho about Malbec in both its incarnations; the French version, Cahors, is taut, lean and tannic, a wine to please the aesthete but never charming or seductive. The alternative, from Argentina, may be a hedonists' delight, but it is big, muscular and powerful. The two versions are poles apart; at times it is hard to believe both are made from the same grape variety. But both exude masculinity. Perhaps it is no coincidence that both Argentina and south-west France share a passion for rugby, too.

In fact it seems likely that immigrants from south-west France were responsible for bringing Malbec vines to Argentina in the 19th century, although others argue that it came via Chile. Its popularity in France has dwindled as Bordeaux switched to more Merlot and Cabernet in the intervening period.

The last bastion of Malbec is Cahors, once a massive wine-producing region, whose vineyards were decimated by the dreaded phylloxera aphid; many are now planted with corn. At the same time, Malbec blossomed in Argentina, loving the dry sunshine and long hot summers. The vines have adapted to the conditions in their new home and look very different too.

It is still the most widely-planted variety in Argentina, mainly in Mendoza, where 70 per cent of all vines are to be found. In the 1980s and 1990s, as Argentina attempted to join the international market, a great many old Malbec vines were ripped up and replaced with the more fashionable Merlot and Cabernet. However, in recent years it is Malbec that has been stealing all the limelight, seemingly able to produce large quantities of very drinkable inexpensive wine as well as some world-class wines at the top end.

In Cahors, Malbec is known as Côt, and forms the core of every wine, sometimes made more accessible with the addition of a little Merlot. The best vineyards are high up above the river on the limestone Causses. Those on the alluvial soils by the river Lot are easier to work, but produce inferior grapes. Great efforts have been made to soften Cahors up in recent years, but the best really require time. In fact, even the less expensive wines age well, and provide an affordable way to start off your wine cellar. It is also possible to find bottles with a few years age. These can show a wonderful fine minerality, and a pleasing austerity.

Argentina is a major producer of beef, and every part of the beast is served up at dinner. They are also masters of the wood-fire barbecue. There probably are other things to drink with Argentine Malbec, but grilled steak is hard to beat. A roast of beef, or a hearty stew are pretty good too. Down in the south-west of France, they are equally fond of their grilled breast of duck, usually served bloody with a pile of frites. This, or a belly of pork, will provide the richness to temper the dry tannins of Cahors.

WINES OF THE WEEK

Cahors, L’Héritage du Cèdre 2006, Château du Cèdre, 12.5%, €12.95-€13.50.

Château du Cèdre produces some of the great wines of south-west France. If you can afford it, I would certainly recommend the Le Prestige (€19.95) or even the silky-smooth Le Cèdre (€38.50); you will not be disappointed. However, the L'Héritage is also well worth a try; light clean, slightly austere blackcurrants with a light spice and dry finish. Perfect with belly of pork or duck breast. Stockists: Fallon Byrne, Exchequer Street, Dublin.; Corkscrew, Chatham Street, Dublin; Liston's, Camden Street, Dublin; Avoca, branches nationwide; Donnybrook Fair, Dublin 4; Le Caveau, Kilkenny; 64 Wine, Glasthule.

Château la Rayne ‘Le Prestige’ Cahors 2005, 13.5%, €16.45.

Textbook modern Cahors. A lovely nose of dark plums, a beautifully concentrated palate of spicy dark fruits, interwoven with a big tannic structure that really shows on the lengthy finish. This is very high quality wine at a very reasonable price. You could confidently lay a few bottles down for five years, but I had no problem drinking it now with some venison. Stockist: www.louisalbrouze.ie

Cahors Clos de Gamot 2000, 12.5%, €21.50.

I am reluctant to recommend this wine, as it is will not appeal to all; I adore it. A lovely refined nose with a touch of iodine; really gorgeous ripe but very elegant fruit, lean, dry, mineral and fairly tannic, but never out of balance. The finish is excellent. If you can afford it, the Cuvée des Vignes Centenaires (€33.50) from the same producer is even better. Drink with a rare roast of beef. Stockists: Wicklow Wine Co; Redmond's, Ranalegh; Probus Wines, Oughterard.

Terrazas de los Andes Malbec, Argentina 2007, 13.5%, €13.99.

Not as big or powerful as most Malbec from this part of the world, but still fairly full-bodied, with rich dark damson fruits, and a good spicy touch. Perfect with roast beef or a peppery rare steak. Stockists: Joyce's, Knocknacarra; Cases, Galway; Lynch's, Glanmire; Deveney's, Dundrum; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Londis, Malahide; Sweeney's, Glasnevin; The Vintry, Rathgar; Redmond's, Ranelagh; McCabes, Mount Merrion and Foxrock.

Mallbec Michel Torino 2007, Mendoza, 13.5%, €9.99.

A great value wine. Pleasant, light, easy damsons and mulberry fruits, with some light but supple tannins on the finish. A good all-rounder to drink with most red or white meat dishes. Stockists: Superquinn, nationwide; Fresh Stores, Dublin; The Village Greengrocer, Castlemartyr; Bin No. 9, Dublin 14; Bramley Lodge Café, Fota; The Wine Boutique, Ringsend; Brian Barry, Midleton; Stack's, Listowel; Mulcahy's, Charleville; Newtown Inn, Maynooth; Moes, Youghal.

Malbec 200 Pascual Toso, Mendoza, 14%, €9.95-€10.95.

One of my favourite Malbecs for some years now, this has lovely big ripe friendly dark fruits with some real power; bangs per buck in spades. Drink with red meats and other substantial dishes. Stockists: O'Donovan Wines, Cork; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Sweeney's, Glasnevin; McCabes, Blackrock; Donnybrook Fair, Dublin 4; 64 Wine, Glasthule; Power Smullen, Lucan; Red Island, Skerries; Drink Store, Manor Street, Dublin; Redmond's, Ranelagh; Vineyard Wine Co, Galway; Currid's, Sligo; World Wide Wines, Waterford; Greenacres, Wexford; Mill Cellar, Maynooth.