What to reach for on the shelves when only a heartwarming glass of red wine will do, writes JOHN WILSON
IS THERE ANYTHING more satisfying than a glass of rich, fruit-filled red wine on a cold winter’s night?
One night last week, I cracked open a half bottle of Alsace Riesling. Usually it is one of my favourite wines, but on this occasion, I could not bring myself to take more than a few sips. Instead, I went looking for a full-bodied red. In cold weather , I crave something red, robust and hearty.
The following night I tasted half a dozen muscular red wines from all over the world. I then made a big dish of toad-in-the-hole. It was trencherman stuff, and probably didn’t help my low-carb diet, but boy was it good. I drank the Norton Privada mentioned below with it, and the world seemed a better place.
Big reds tend to be lower in acidity and higher in alcohol, perfect for these cold winter nights. Wine regions with warmer climates tend to make the bigger, more powerful red wines. The southern Rhône valley, the Languedoc, southern and central Spain, south Australia, and Argentina are the places to look. Some are expensive, but Argentina and Spain have plenty of big reds at under €10.
These wines need to be served at a warmer temperature than a more elegant Bordeaux or Pinot Noir. Room-temperature is ideal, but don’t over-heat it, and certainly don’t warm it beside a fire; it will just taste soupy and alcoholic. Around 18 degrees Celsius is perfect.
A few hours in the kitchen while you are cooking is logical but slow, and many kitchens are heated to well over 20 degrees.
If you are in a hurry, try warming a decanter (or jug) in hot water for a few minutes before adding the wine, or stand your bottle in lukewarm water for a few minutes. I know many people use microwave ovens, but I find them very difficult to judge.
If you want to drink a white wine, put aside the Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon and choose something with plenty of body and alcohol. A rich Chardonnay would be good, from the Mâcon in Burgundy, Australia or California. Alternatively, the southern Rhône makes good powerful whites, or you could go for a Hungarian dry Furmint.
Don’t over-chill it; the more body a white wine has, the closer it gets to red wine, and should be allowed to express itself when very lightly chilled. For big white wines, aim for around 12 degrees.
Palacio del Marqués 2009, La Mancha, 14.5%, €9.99This is a big, flavour-packed red, with no rough edges and plenty of warmth. Perfect with any stew or casserole, or with baked pasta dishes. Stockist: Marks Spencer
Campo de Borja Borsao Garnacha 2008, 14%, €9.25The central and southern parts of Spain produce huge quantities of red wine, some of it offering remarkable value. This is a delicious, bouncy, big ripe red with real staying power. Smooth, lightly spicy generous strawberry fruits, and a nice rounded finish. Stockists: Hole in the Wall, Dublin 7; Martin's, Fairview; Power Smullen, Lucan; The Cheese Pantry, Drumcondra; Searson's, Monkstown; Next Door branches in Sundrive, Clane, Harold's Cross, Navan and Enniscorthy; Stewart's, Castleknock; Mac's, Limerick; Ardkeen Stores, Waterford; The Parting Glass, Enniskerry; Probus Wines, Fenian Street, Dublin and Oughterard; Claudio's Wines, Newtownmountkennedy
Vacqueyras Domaine Le Sang des Cailloux Cuvée Floureto 2007, 14.5%, €21.99"Blood of the stones" – the translation of the name of this wine says it all. This is one of the best producers in Vacqueyras, carving out full-bodied wines with an animal power. Not a wine to sip before dinner, this is a big, fairly tannic wine, rustic and brooding. I would decant it before serving with game and red meats. Stockists: Donnybrook Fair, which is offering it at €17.99 for the month of January, and thewinestore.ie
Norton Privada 2007, Mendoza, 14.8%, €16.39Made from a blend of Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this is an amazingly smooth, full-throttle wine, packed with enveloping, sultry, dark fruits and spicy new oak, kept together by a good firm structure. I would decant an hour or so beforehand and serve with beef. Stockist: O'Briens
Bethany Old Vine Grenache 2007, Barossa, 14%, €14.45The Barossa valley is best-known for its hearty Shiraz, and these make great winter warmers, but it is worth looking out for Grenache from there too. Prized in the southern Rhône for its alcohol and body, Barossa Grenache is very under-rated. The Bethany version is rich and full of sweet raspberry fruits, with a very smooth finish. This would go very nicely with game dishes. Stockist: O'Briens
El Bon Homme 2009, Valencia, 14%, €12A blend of Cabernet and Monastrell (aka Mourvèdre), this is a structured wine, with plenty of friendly, generous, warming, ripe plum fruits and a very good finish. It is excellent value for money. Try it with stews, casseroles and roasted red meats. Stockists: Red Island, Skerries; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Lilliput Stores, Stonybatter; Bin No. 9, Goatstown; Liston's, Camden Street; Deveney's, Rathmines; Lilac Wines, Fairview; 64wine, Glasthule; Ennis's, South Circular Road; Dunne's Butchers, Donnybrook.
Learn about wine
Sweeney’s Wine Merchants in Glasnevin, Dublin 9 will be running a series of wine courses, starting in late January, including an eight-week wine appreciation course, and several WSET courses. See wineeducationireland.com.
