‘Would you care to try our ‘world peace’ peanut muscovado milk’?” our waitress enquires after our meal at State Bird Provisions in San Francisco. Ice cold peanut-infused milk is poured over a muscovado simple syrup, served in a frosty shot glass. Completely ridiculous but undeniably brilliant.
The bustling restaurant is one of the city’s most sought-after hot spots with reservations backing up for as long as six months. We got lucky and nabbed one of their walk-in spots by stopping by early. Clearly inspired by America’s largest Chinatown only a few blocks away, diners are treated to a unique experience of dim sum-style carts and trays loaded with Northern Californian fusion plates.
I find this particular style of serving both exciting and incredibly stressful – the main issue is I am a glutton, and this level of temptation results in some serious over-ordering. This was certainly the case when we visited Chinatown’s City View restaurant, a traditional dim sum joint far more in keeping with tradition. As soon as you are seated the food rolls up and the waiters and waitresses reveal steaming baskets of tender pork buns, slippery shrimp sui mai, and slices of peking duck stuffed into open white buns slathered with hoisin sauce.
Having to say no to food as it rumbles by right under your nose is a tricky business. Once you’ve feasted on all things savoury there is no waiting around as the dessert carts come dashing out of the kitchen laden with custard tarts and sesame balls.
Outside Chinatown, and down in the trendy Mission district, we were pointed in the direction of Mission Chinese Food. Setup by chef Danny Bowien in an old Chinese eatery, it's as if the teenage son of a well-respected Chinese family restaurant had been given the keys to the place and turned it on its head. Hungry hipsters loiter outside with their names scrawled on a cardboard clipboard waiting to be called. Inside, the place is darkly lit with gaudy Chinese decorations, retro furniture and pumping dance music.
Whether you like your dinner with a side of hipster nightlife or not, the food is delicious and undoubtedly a cool take on Sichuanese fare. Thrice-cooked fatty slivers of bacon with rice cakes, sweet tofu skin and bitter melona and crispy fried chongqing chicken wings coated with lip numbing spices like sichuan peppercorns and star anise are instant classics. It’s easy to see why the place has a cult following.
For any food lover San Francisco has so much to offer, but don’t forget to sample the best of this vibrant community.
Get your Chinatown fix at home with these simple to make recipes.
