The house of Antinori showcased its premium wines at an Irish Timestasting dinner
"Wine is the pleasantest subject in the world to discuss," wine writer Hugh Johnson once observed. "All its associations are with occasions when people are at their best; with relaxation, contentment, leisurely meals and the free flow of ideas." Johnson was not speaking of the recent Irish Times wine dinner in Dublin, but he could have been, such was the prevailing sense of bonhomie at the event.
More than 50 readers were randomly selected to enjoy a six-course meal in the stylishly renovated Dobbins restaurant, with a menu designed to complement the acclaimed wines of Italian producer Antinori. Dobbins, along with Findlater Grants, which distributes Antinori wines in Ireland, were our partners for the event. To guide us through the wines, including much lauded "Super-Tuscan" Tignanello 2000, Allegra Antinori made a fleeting visit to Dublin.
The refreshingly frank and friendly Antinori is one of three daughters of the famed Marchese Piero Antinori, who transformed the fortunes of his family company - which dates back to 1385 - over the past 40 years. From the family's home and headquarters in the Palazzo Antinori in Florence, he has instigated the kind of sweeping and innovative change that has revolutionised Italian wine production.
In his book, Brunello to Zibibbo, the Wines of Tuscany, Central and Southern Italy (Mitchell Beazley, £20), Nicolas Belfrage describes Piero Antinori as the "standard-bearer of the Tuscan and, ultimately, Italian wine rinascimento [ renaissance] "
Through a combination of tradition and innovation, of consolidation and expansion, Antinori's reach today stretches way beyond the core area of Tuscany and Umbria, indeed even beyond the borders of Italy to California, Hungary and Chile.
On the night, guests, after a toast with Pommery 1998 Champagne, drank wines that reflected the diversity going on under the Antinori name: the uncomplicated lemon freshness of Villa Antinori Bianco de Toscana 2005, which worked really well with fish; the rounded richness of the 100 per cent Sangiovese Tenute Marchesi Antinori Riserva 2001 and the complex and soft, vivid fruit of Tignanello 2000 (80 per cent Sangiovese; 20 per cent Cabernet). The Chardonnay-dominated Cervaro della Sala 2005 was stunning, combining buttery density with extraordinary lightness of texture that made for a wonderful if unlikely partner with veal. After that we barely had time to get a second wind before the big fleshy Bordeaux blend (Cabernet and Merlot) of the Guado al Tasso 2000 (from the developing region of Bolgheri) was filling our glass with berry richness - so rich the cheese gave up the fight. And so to the parting gift of the Maffato 2005, a lovely light dessert wine with waves of vanilla and apple. And just the thing for the peachy dessert.
Fine wines, great food and good company made for a memorable night. It was enhanced by the informed comments of Allegra Antinori on each wine, and on the manner in which her father changed the nature of Tuscan and Italian viticulture. Speaking to guests afterwards, it was clear Antinori had just won over a new batch of fans - as indeed had Dobbins, with guests merrily booking return visits.
The Irish Times wine dinner is conceived as an occasional celebration of exceptional food and wine, an opportunity for readers to sample memorable fare at a nominal cost. And in happy agreement with our partners the full total of the €50 ticket price is donated to charity, in this instance the Children's Sunshine Home which provides home support, respite and residential services to children with life-limiting and life-threatening conditions. The partners share the full cost of the evening. The next dinner will take place in the autumn.
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Appetizer:Gazpacho soup
Fish course:Organic Atlantic salmon and west coast crab with wasabi mayonnaise. Villa Antinori Bianco 2005 (€12.99, from Supervalu; O'Briens; Joyces, Galway; Harvest, Galway; Nolans, Clontarf; Molloy Group. McCabes, Blackrock and Foxrock) .
Pasta course:Penne pasta salad with summer vegetables. Tenute Marchesi Antinori Riserva 2001 (€25, from O'Brien's; Gables, Foxrock; Sweeneys, Glasnevin; Wine Well, Dunboyne.)
Main course:Milk-fed veal loin marinated in fresh oregano and extra virgin olive oil, asparagus in Parma ham, fondant potato and morel jus. Wine: Tignanello 2000 (€75, from O'Briens; McHughs, Raheny; Jus De Vine, Portmarnock) and Cervaro 2005 (€35, from O'Briens; Redmond, Ranelagh; Corkscrew, Chatham Street; McCabes, Blackrock).
Cheese course:Irish and Italian selection. Wine: Guado al Tasso 2000 (€45, from O'Brien's; Jus De Vine; McCabes).
Dessert:Peach and Amaretto tart, vanilla ice-cream. Wine:Muffato 2005.
(Not available in Ireland)
Our thanks to our partners - Dobbins: proprietor Pat Walsh, chef/proprietor Gary Flynn and floor manager Noel Murphy and his staff; Findlater Grants: Philip Robinson, Noel Tymlin, Ian Campbell and Ivan Harrow. And for work above and beyond the call, thanks also go to Kate Bowe PR and Maeve O'Meara and Kate Ronayne from The Irish Times.