Domaine Rives-Blanques Chardonnay Vin de Pays d'Oc 2002 and Domaine Félines Jourdan Picpoul de Pinet Côteaux du Languedoc 2003
White wines from the south of France pale into insignificance alongside the region's rich reds - most of the time. Here are two terrific exceptions, both with enough body and flavour to make them perfect for autumn drinking.
Domaine Rives-Blanques Chardonnay Vin de Pays d'Oc 2002. It's often difficult to get excited about Chardonnay in a world so wildly oversupplied with it, but this is a smashing example at an irresistible price. From a fastidious estate with an organic philosophy in Limoux, it combines ripe apple and honey flavours with a crisp lemon tang. A smooth, creamy texture adds to the appeal, thanks to subtle oak treatment. This is the kind of wine that goes with anything from a handful of tortilla chips to roast chicken. Dig in. From O'Briens, €8.99.
Domaine Félines Jourdan Picpoul de Pinet Côteaux du Languedoc 2003. If you're on the lookout for a tasty white wine which offers a completely different spectrum of flavours from all the mainstream grapes, have a go at this. In the hands of an expert producer, the Languedoc speciality Picpoul Blanc delivers a zesty, characterful wine with hints of pineapple, lime and lemon sherbet. A slight earthiness is another plus: so many wines smell all cleaned up and confected. Juicily appetising by itself, or try it with roast pork. From Wines Direct, €10.15; minimum order six bottles (which may be mixed).