Irishwoman in Bali: ‘Living in paradise has its downsides’

I think I was destined to be an eternal nomad; at the age of two I left Dublin with my family for my father’s job in the Middle East. I became what was then labelled an “expat brat”, now more gently known as a “third culture kid”.

My childhood was spent growing up between Bahrain and Singapore, being educated in international schools and travelling the globe. When my dad came home and informed us we would be moving yet again, it seemed like the most earth-shattering news, especially in my teenage years. But as an adult, I look back on my childhood with such fondness and appreciation for the amazing experiences I was given by my parents as a result of all these moves. It was a nomadic life which I like to think has made me more open, honest, accepting and flexible.

Asia left a permanent stain on my heart and once I trained and worked in Dublin for a few years as a Montessori teacher, I found myself yearning for it. My 20-year career in early childhood education so far has taken me to Mumbai, Vientiane, Singapore, Jakarta and Bali. Now with an Indonesian husband Randi, it seems more likely that Asia will remain home.

Life in Asia ticks by at a different pace. Here in Denpasar in Bali, I travel to work at the preschool that I manage by scooter in my flip flops. I finish at 4pm, and can be at the beach by 5pm to catch the sunset with a beer. The weather is consistently good except for deluges during the rainy season, but coming from Ireland I am well able to cope with the wet.

I feel pretty blessed to be living in what most people consider the ideal holiday location, but life in paradise come with its fair share of downsides too. Bali is beginning to suffer from serious overcrowding, and with that has come more traffic, rubbish, pollution and crime.

I first visited Bali in 1997 and the island has changed dramatically since. Of most concern now are plans for a massive land reclamation project, with provisions for yacht marinas, race tracks, casinos, nightclubs, resort hotels, shopping complexes, and a large number of condominiums. If it goes ahead, the project will take away areas of the sea that many locals rely on for their livelihoods, and could cause irreparable damage to the coastline through erosion. I hope local government can have the strength and will to protect the fragile nature of this island.

In the 20 years I have been living abroad as an adult, I have made three attempts at moving back to Ireland, most recently in 2012. Each time, it has been the same issues which have held me back: the job situation, the weather, and the cost of living. On my last trip back I didn’t even qualify to draw social welfare while I was looking for secure work. It was so disheartening for a very experienced early childhood educator with global experience to have to struggle juggling part-time temporary jobs. In interviews I was often told I was over-qualified for the position.

There are many things I still miss about home: my parents and brother, decent footpaths, real chocolate, Irish breakfasts, rolling hills, vast landscapes and the cleanliness. And of course Christmas never feels like Christmas unless I’m in Dublin. So this December, Randi and I will head to Dublin for Christmas. He has grown to love Dublin perhaps more than me.

Will we try another move back? We talk about it on the days when the traffic is bad, or the neighbours too nosey, or we find a snake in our house. But for now, we’re still making the most of those sunsets at the beach with the sun on our skin and sand between our toes.