A matter of taste

Wine tasting is a tough sport – even the experts can get it wrong sometimes, writes JOHN WILSON.

MOST OF US are familiar with the basics of how we taste things. The receptors in our mouth take in very little – sweet, sour, salty, bitter and the more recently discovered fifth taste, umami, which covers savoury flavours. Add in texture or mouthfeel, and that’s about it. Everything else comes through the olfactory bulb, situated above our nose, which is connected to our brain.

In fact, it is rather more complex than this. How each individual tastes is a complex mix of smell, taste and touch, and how these react with our brain. We taste food differently at different times. We are influenced by what else we have eaten, by the people around us, our current mood, and other things besides. There are those, including a number of leading UK wine journalists, who believe that we taste differently according to the biodynamic calendar. But how often do we think of our eyes when tasting?

Here are a few simple tests. In her excellent book on tasting, Masterglass, Jancis Robinson recommends comparing smoked salmon and smoked mackerel with a blindfold on. If you pass that fairly simple test, then try a warm glass of rich Chardonnay alongside a light red, such as Beaujolais. It can be very difficult to work out which is red and which is white. Another trick is to blindfold a friend in the pub, and see if he, or she, can tell the difference between stout, ale and lager – not as easy as you might think. If they pass that test, then try them on Heineken, Carlsberg and Harp.

It is well known that our eyes play an important role in our enjoyment of food. If we think something will taste nice, then generally it will. Chefs are very aware of this, and spend a great deal of effort making their dishes look enticing. One recent scientific study indicated that the part of our brain that is responsible for tasting expands when we are about to taste something we like, thereby increasing the pleasure.

Wine is one of the few subjects that takes objectivity seriously, through blind tastings. My colleague Tom Doorley is not led blindfold into a restaurant to review its food; the various art critics read books, or see plays knowing exactly who is responsible for the work. In many ways, this can be of help; if we know the author, playwright, chef or winemaker, we have a good idea of what to expect, and will approach the subject with a greater degree of understanding. However, I suspect that in each category, we are sometimes a little in awe of the proven greats.

I have taken part in a great many blind wine tastings, and am still in two minds as to their usefulness. Sometimes you spend more time trying to guess the wine than evaluate its quality. A little knowledge about the area, grape variety and vintage is a real help, and can allow greater understanding. But as a general rule, it is the most scientific method, fair to all, and means you leave your prejudices at the door. It can also be a great exercise in personal humility.

With this in mind, I went along to a day-long conference held by Wine Australia, the body charged with marketing Aussie wine in Ireland. We were given a shorter version of a course run for Australians who wish to participate in the Australian wine show circuit. The idea was to test our tasting abilities. As each of us tastes wine differently, the argument is that the key to being a good judge is to show consistency. In one tasting we were given 20 white wines and 20 red wines to taste blind. All had been entered in a wine competition in Australia. What we were not told was that each appeared twice, so in fact we were tasting only 10 white wines and 10 reds. The idea was not to fool us, but to see if we could mark in a consistent manner, spotting real quality and marking accordingly.

The other tasting, which was fascinating, was a line-up of 11 versions of the same red and 11 of the same white wine. This time however, some had been doctored with wine faults, and others had not. Our job was to spot the faulty wines, and the specific faults. It turned out that some of us had blind spots for particular smells and tastes. I know that I have a relatively high threshold for corked wines, whereas my wife is very sensitive, and seems to spot them before the bottle is opened. Despite this, I was able to spot the two corked wines (apparently there are two kinds of cork taints) and most of the other faulty wines. A few, however, passed me by, and I had one perfectly good wine marked down as slightly faulty.

Some wines only become faulty when a chemical compound reaches a certain threshold. For instance, most red wines contain a certain level of Brettanomyces. This bacteria loves low-acid, high-alcohol solutions, so particular kinds of red wines can have higher levels if the winemaker is not careful. For some, a little Brett can add complexity to a wine and is not a bad thing. Too much and it can taste distinctly barn-yardy, with what the French call “un gout de merde”. Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with its low acidity, is where you will find Brett most frequently.

The Australians have a tasting panel that slurps its way through each batch of wine that leaves the country. The tasting panel then grants an export licence. (I suppose the Aussies must keep the duff stuff to themselves.) The Australian show circuit, a series of marathon tastings run in the main cities of Australia, is vitally important to the Australian wine industry. The trophy winners get a huge boost in sales, particularly on the home market. The highest accolade of all is the Jimmy Watson Trophy, named after a legendary winemaker. The winemaker and winery who win a “Jimmy” can expect to reap a substantial financial reward and a place in history.

WINES OF THE WEEK

Brown Brothers Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Victoria, 14%, rrp €14.49.This wine won a silver medal and three bronze medals in competitions last year. I enjoyed the coolish, medium-bodied plum fruits, light herbiness, and lightly tannic finish. A good partner for grilled lamb chops with cumin. Stockists:Tesco Ireland; Super Valu Centra Stores; Carry-Out, nationwide; O'Donovans, Cork; Molloy's Liquor Stores; Joyce's, Galway.

Wyndham Estate George Wyndham Shiraz, 2005, 15%, €14.99.This wine won a host of awards, including three trophies – one gold, three silvers – and five bronze medals. In addition, it won a gold medal at the Irish Noffla wine awards last September, so obviously it has something going for it. I found it a little oaky, but otherwise very attractive, with nicely balanced dark fruits, and a smooth finish. Very good at the price, and perfect with most grilled or barbecued meats. Stockists:O'Briens; O'Donovan's, Cork.

Wolf Blass Gold Label Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2007, 13.5%, €22.99.This won silver in Adelaide, as well as two golds, three silvers and four bronze medals elsewhere. Delicate, refreshing crisp green fruits, with light vanilla and spice, finishing with a flourish. Try it with grilled white fish, brill or black sole would be perfect. Stockists:O'Brien's; Molloy's; Fine Wines, Limerick; Shiel's Malahide; Jus de Vine Portmarnock.

Penfold's Thomas Hyland Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills 2007, 13%, €18.99.Bronze in Adelaide, one gold, two silver and three bronze medals at other fairs. Sourced from the cooler wine regions of South Australia, primarily Adelaide Hills again, this is a very nicely balanced Chardonnay at a remarkably competitive price. A forward floral nose leads on to some refined, crisp lime and melon fruits, backed up with some subtle, classy notes of oak, and an elegant dry finish. Try it with lighter chicken dishes. Stockists:Limited availability from the off-trade, as this wine is primarily sold through restaurants and hotels. If you happen to be in Newport House, the Herbert Park Hotel, Shanahan's on the Green, Castle Durrow or Inchydoney, look out for a bottle. Otherwise it is available from Fine Wines, Limerick.

TWO UNDER €12

Brown Brothers Chenin Blanc 2008, Victoria, 12%, €10.99.Nicely rounded, ripe melon and tropical fruits, with a slightly sweet finish. Try it with a bowl of lightly spiced Thai curry with coconut milk. Stockists:Very widely available, including Dunnes Stores, Tesco, Super Valu/Centra, Superquinn, O'Donovans, Cork, and Molloys.

Domaine de Sérame Syrah Vin de Pays d'Oc 2007, 13.5%, €9.99.Amongst a sea of Syrah emanating from the Languedoc, this stands out, particularly at the price. Delicious cool, refined plum fruits that sail right on through to the finish, given extra interest by hints of woodsmoke. There are plenty of tannins, so save it for a roast of lamb, beef or pork. Stockist:O'Briens