Rich colours and embroidery dominate Louise Kennedy’s new collection

The gorgeous dusky blooms and garlands that decorated designer Louise Kennedy’s Merrion Square headquarters inside and out today made their own visual statement about her latest autumn/winter collection. Blood red hydrangeas, black Baccara roses, burgundy peonies and dark vibernum berries from Appassionata echoed the rich colours and textures of her fabrics this season.

The collection was no exception in terms of its elegance and lush materials, exquisite hand crafted embellishment and rich colour though shapes - like jersey dresses and lace shifts - were sometimes familiar. Front row guests included costume designer Joan Bergin and TV presenter Clare Byrne.

Many of the pieces were made for grand entrances like the coats and long gowns that opened the show in dark red and pink embossed floral jacquards woven in Italy alongside mini skirts in the same fabric worn simply with black polo necks for more informal daywear. Guests, however, would have noted that the sleeves of a cardigan tossed casually around the shoulders were decorated with jewelled floral motifs. Similarly a tailored black coat glittered with beaded cuffs giving it more of a wow factor.

ExpandAutoplay

Image 1 of 3

Left to right: Thalia is wearing a Thalia Red and Pink Rose Embossed Dress (€1995); Tabea is wearing a Harlow red and pink embossed coat (€2995); and Yomiko is wearing the Aubrey pink and rose embossed cape (€1395), mila polo neck (€395) and bella red and pink rose embossed mini (€495). Photograph: Sasko Lazarov/Photocall Ireland

A recurring shape was the cape in all its forms whether for glamorous decorative outerwear, in crepe daywear dresses, shaped for the night with encrusted embroidery or otherwise embellished. “The Aubrey cape”, said Kennedy “is an exaggerated silhouette that will modernise your wardrobe” - a debatable point.Other details were cutaway sleeves on dresses and shirts giving a simple jersey column a new look or brightening up a work ensemble. Another sharp business trio was a long navy waistcoat worn with a white shirt, crepe trousers and a brooch. The designer revealed that she is working on a white shirt collection to be launched next month in London.

Of all the embroideries and decor some of the most spectacular were in what was called the Oriental Garden series - very detailed and rich pearl and beadwork flowers embellishing everything from evening dresses to sweaters and tops while silver jewellery and Swarovski crystal shone from black dresses, many slashed or off the shoulder. Cashmere embroidered wraps and lavish fur jackets and black mink pom pom hairdoes underscored further the collection’s overall look and thrust of luxury. Prices started at €295 for a white shirt up to €6995 for a chocolate mink jacket with jersey tops €495 and jersey dresses €695.

Styling was by Catherine Condell, hair by Michael Leong and make up by Zoe Clarke.