Gumbo Etc review: A serious taste of New Orleans on Dublin’s northside

What’s on offer?

There’s been a whole New Orleans vibe going on at The Glimmer Man while resident food truck heroes, Vietnom, have been on leave. Patrick and Natty Coyle, who met in New Orleans, are signed-up gumbo fans and have been popping up around Dublin since last summer. They take gumbo seriously, and base theirs on a recipe by Paul Prudhomme, the much-lauded New Orleans chef. Overnight stock and a dark chocolate roux made from toasted flour are some of the secrets to adding depth of flavour. The stock is made from chicken bones from Ennis butchers, and a mirepoix of green peppers, celery and onion are slow-cooked before the Cajun spices, chicken pieces and smoked sausage are added. It’s a limited menu, just four dishes when I visited, with all the dishes priced at €11.

[ It's easy to see why this new restaurant is already much-loved by locals ]

What did we order?

The chicken and sausage gumbo, of course, and a roast beef po boy. The red beans with smoked sausage had just been crossed off as we arrived. The other option was Cajun colcannon, which sounded intriguing.

How was the service?

Gumbo Etc is a food stall at the back of The Glimmer Man. You order there, take a buzzer, grab a pint and wait for it to buzz. Couldn’t be simpler.

Was the food nice?

My American wingman gave the thumbs up for both dishes. The gumbo provided all the hearty depth of flavour you would expect – the freshly made Polish smoked sausage, which comes from Ryan’s Meats in Finglas is, I am told, the closest you can get to New Orleans smoked sausage this side of the pond. The roast beef po boy had all of the flavour of slowly cooked beef, shredded and mixed with gravy, piled onto a Bretzel Bakery soft baguette with mayo, lettuce, tomato and pickle. The helpings are not huge, but nor is the price.

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[ This new restaurant is stunning. Its Michelin-quality food is a blast of sheer joy ]

What did it cost?

€22 for dinner for two people – gumbo €11; and po boy €11.

Where does it deliver?

They’re at The Glimmer Man on Friday and Saturday, 6pm-10pm until March 11th. Order there for takeaway, or eat in the pub. Follow them on Instagram to see where they will pop-up next.

Would I order it again?

Most definitely. This is wholesome food filled with New Orleans flavour.