WITH A nod to the forthcoming Olympics in London, sporty details were a feature of British designer Stella McCartney’s Paris show.
Low-slung pants, baseball blousons and jockey vests, some with cutout panels or contrast insets typical of Lycra sportswear, were a foil to the severity of the tailoring.
The sight of her father, Paul McCartney, who is soon to be 70, leaping up and raising a clenched fist in delight at the end of her show at Hotel de Ville reflected the general reaction.
It was another winning collection from the UK designer confirming her status as a serious player on the international fashion stage.
Her latest fan, singer Alicia Keys, sat front row in a skintight trompe-l’oeuil black and white dress.
McCartney has always been a cut above the others when it comes to tailoring. With feminine takes on masculine cuts so prevalent in this Paris season, she stole the show with tweed coats and flirty skirt suits in hourglass shapes executed with Savile Row precision and highlighted with gold ruffle metal collars.
The main charms of the show, however, were the bold graphic blue/black and white textured jacquard separates, some teamed with her trademark tuxedos or worn with the new midi-length skirts.
These strong visual patterns will define the collection and be instantly recognisable as hers along with easy-going Aran knit dresses in shades of smoke or dusty pink. It was a collection that offered modern options for city or country wear.
As a female designer and working mother, McCartney has always brought her own perspective to both day and evening wear offering a variety of desirable coats, some zippered, some mannish but in striking sapphire blue, soft grey or white brocade.
With skirts not only midi length but also short and flippy, the effect was feminine, elegant and light-hearted.
At Hermes, the leather and saddlery equestrian codes
of this august house were reinvigorated by Christophe Lemaire with a collection at the École des Beaux-Arts that saluted the spirited style of South American gauchos in a more upscale urban way.
That meant pleated baggy bombacha-style trousers tucked into stacked-heel riding boots, belted ponchos, chaps and a lot of suede, swagger and cocked trilbys.