IN A pleasing, no-fuss spring-summer preview yesterday in their Designer Rooms, Brown Thomas sent out a breezy line-up of fresh prints and light feminine dresses drawn from international brands to encapsulate the modern urban spirit.
With the exception of one frightening orange three-piece with flared trousers by Chloé and a chic, severely cut white ensemble from McQueen, there were few trouser suits and far less emphasis on tailoring. Black only made occasional appearances, most dramatically at Celine, Alexander Wang and Margiela. Otherwise, the central forces of the show were colour and pattern, even in accessories, though no prices were listed.
With the digital revolution transforming prints, the sheer variety stood out, most memorably in the masterful jungle, pictorial and landscape prints from Dries Van Noten in 1950s couture shapes like boxy jackets, tent and opera coats that opened the show.
Prints at Mary Katrantzou came in her signature hourglass silhouettes while Stella McCartney’s loose tunic tops with sensual hibiscus blooms looked more languid and easier to wear. Even Celine’s embroidered bomber jackets warmed up the more austere two-tone ensembles.
Some of the standout pieces, however, were the girlish Red Valentino dresses, with their sweet prints and frothy full skirts with a dreamy sheath in creamy spangled lace. More everyday were Lanvin’s chic bouclé tweed dresses, two-piece suits and cardigan jackets that had a Chanel look, though an emerald silk off-the-shoulder number was his more familiar style. Designers like Philip Lim and Acne brought streetwear to the fore with Lim’s racer back jumpsuits and Acne’s neon pink waistcoats and cocoon tops worn over coloured jeans. If Victoria Beckham’s cat prints failed to purr, DG’s ruched florals nailed the summer mood and though the shapely white silk floor length gown by McQueen lacked the rear buttons of Pippa Middleton’s celebrated version, it was the bridal climax of the morning.