THE SIGHT of Stella McCartney dressed in jeans, a child in each arm and two more little ones in tow after her show in Paris yesterday was a reminder that the demands of motherhood give female designers grounded fashion perspectives.
Despite the splendour of the Paris Opera House in the early morning sun, this collection was down-to-earth, stylish and clearly aimed at women, like her, who juggle home and work.
It also coincided with the launch of her first children’s wear collection which made its Irish debut in Dublin yesterday.
Playful prints and tiger embroideries in that collection were not, as is common in brands, miniature versions of adult looks.
Unlike most designers in Paris this week, McCartney’s collection did not feature fur or leather, which are huge trends for winter.
Her new, rather voluminous proportions made many of the sloping, oversized tuxedos and floor-length coats look distorted, as if their shoulders were weighted down by heavy responsibilities.
But soft shirting and skinny high-waisted trousers had an easier air and the knits were terrific, particularly a black turtle neck sweater in boiled wool that was long and roomy.
The dropped shoulder line worked to better effect in the day dresses, in soft Miyake-style pleats of black or midnight blue and in ultra-sexy eveningwear in body-contouring silhouettes.
If masculine jackets were oversized, these black and white trompe l’oeil dresses with their sinuous curves made their wearers look two sizes smaller.
Best of all were the spotted net evening dresses, floating on transparent tulle, polka-dot lace spangling a see-through bodice or outlining the body with graphic insets.
In their own way they were as daring as her big new shapes, but more successful.