“WE ARE having our own hippy chic garden party,” quipped actress Dree Hemingway, one of the models at the Ungaro show yesterday in Paris staged in a huge glass pavilion on the site of the former Citroen car factory.
Ungaro’s new creative director, British designer Giles Deacon, replaced the conventional catwalk with a grassed area and truckloads of flowers where the models cavorted as if at a cocktail party, chatting, drinking and eating, all decked out in the new spring collection.
Hemingway discussed the beautiful glitter tweed and black lace sheath she was wearing and revealed that she spent a year in Ireland living in Marlfield House in Gorey when her mother was making a movie.
Being able to see the clothes at close quarters, to appreciate their workmanship and finish made for a refreshing change from the usual formats. The collection was very gay Paree in its use of lingerie lace on flirty evening dresses, very flou in its use of feathers and frills and very 40s silver screen in its strapless satin evening gowns.
Suits in sugar pink tweeds evoked Chanel and draped front dresses in sorbet colours were mostly knee-length sheaths in light prints. The look was fresh and soignee, though jewelled underwear almost tipped it into Folies Bergere territory.
British designers were out in force yesterday where Hannah MacGibbon at Chloe and Stella McCartney both produced memorable collections. Chloe’s mix of Grecian draping and ballerina skirts with a sporty twist in shades like amber and chocolate was soft and graceful and the slim leather and wool combinations made for striking daywear and evening ensembles.
McCartney confirmed her growing international status with a terrific, grounded collection. “Her personality resonates with consumers and there’s a strong sense of reality to the brand” said the company’s CEO announcing further expansions in Europe and the US. Her signature tailoring showed in lean trouser suits and summer tuxedos in pale pastels like rose and pistachio.
There were tunics, dresses and crop trousers in crisp denim to flatter any shape and the long flyaway pleated silk dresses were cool and sexy. If the big citrus prints sounded a loud note, her yellow sou’wester will be summer’s most stylish waterproof.