"IT'S BACK to tailoring, formal trousers, pencil skirts and structured jackets; fashion has become more sophisticated," said Annmarie Flood, chief executive of a|wear, which last night staged its biggest fashion show yet.
Costing in excess of €50,000, the show in the Mansion House in Dublin marked the opening of a|wear's first UK store, in Leicester, next week.
Dutch model Queeny van der Zande (16) flew in from London to launch the event, called Unlocking the Secrets of Fashion, from a huge bird cage under a shower of gold glitter.
The show covered the themes of the season, such as lace dresses (the Prada influence) in shift styles worn with jumbo clutch bags and patent shoes.
But the winning three-piece for winter, said Ms Flood, was a casual check shirt with ruffles, a great pair of jeans, and a sleek leather jacket - a look easy on the figure and the pocket.
Jeans in black, dark blue or pinstripe denim have become acceptable dressy alternatives to trousers for work, she said.
There were touches of paisley and tartan in the casualwear and lots of bow decor.
Black was the dominant colour, along with purple and ochre.
Despite the recession, "customers always want something new and, even though we are quieter than last year, our sales figures are healthy", Ms Flood added.
The Irish fashion chain is launching its ambitious assault on the UK market at an inauspicious time.
Retail spending there has experienced its worst fall in 22 years.
However, this had been to a|wear's advantage, said Ms Flood.
"A lot of sites have become available and rents are more negotiable.
"We have €10 million from private equity group Alchemy Partners to set up a|wear sites and locations in the UK and we have been planning this for two years," she said.
"Bristol will open on September 25th and another outlet at the end of October.
"Our plan is to have a minimum of 10 UK stores by 2009."