London Fashion Week opened with a swing at the weekend a day earlier than usual, coinciding with the publication of the findings of the UK's Model Health Inquiry, set up following concerns about the use of underage and size zero models.
It revealed that up to 40 per cent of models suffer from eating disorders and one of its l4 recommendations was that those wanting to work should produce medical certificates "attesting good health". The banning of under-16s from runways is already in effect.
Paul Costelloe, whose show was the first on the catwalk calendar on Saturday, said that such recommendations would be difficult to enforce. "The whole controversy over skinny models has gone on too long and is way over the top," he told The Irish Times. "Obesity is a much greater problem," he said. He also complained that he was disappointed with the standard of many of the models. "Some of the good ones have gone to Madrid fashion week because they are paid better."
Nevertheless, his summer 2008 collection with a blond army of 14 models had a confident sheen and sparkled with lovely fabrics in gold and silver. New "bucket" shaped skirts gathered under the rear looked sexy in bold checks or pale pinstriped linens, and the winning line-up included ultra-chic trench coats in matte gold or black PVC linen, snowy tweed suits and trapeze dresses. Models in white sunglasses and silver peep-toed stilettos underlined the hardcore glamour of the collection.
"It's for the dominant woman, the strong-minded woman," he said. But even the strong-minded might baulk at ruffled waisted shorts, the only discordant note in an otherwise polished collection.
The young British designer Gavin Douglas went for gold too, with slipper satin accordion pleats opening his show in the loading bay of Harrods, though his collection was more rock chick than silver screen in spirit with its black leather waistcoats, silver blouson tops and skin-tight dresses with reptilian straps all laden with jewellery. Bell-shaped dresses in skyscraper prints were cute, but feather skirts with crystal studded Marilyn Monroe print bustiers were best left to nocturnal birds of prey.
Top Shop, London's most famous retailer, was not on the official schedule but previewed its Unique collection in which short dresses in dip-dyed silk or blue and white Indian border prints were fresh and feminine.