THE minimalist setting of the Brown Thomas headquarters in Dublin echoed the modernist spirit of the autumn/winter collections unveiled yesterday.
“The new look is clean, structured and womanly,” said buying director Shelly Corkery. “Everyone is cutting down and lines are cleaner.”
That was a reference to the influence of Phoebe Philo, designer behind the season’s hottest brand, Celine, whose simple, flattering and sexy shapes – silky two-toned tunic dresses in spicy shades or slim wool overcoats with leather sleeves – were the opening numbers that established the theme and more linear silhouettes of the show.
If there was any connection between the familiar international labels such as McCartney, Gucci, Burberry, Prada and others it was an emphasis on tailored daywear with a wide offer of handsome jackets, overcoats and trenches many in cashmere or leather in camel, navy or black.
Most were worn conventionally with slim pants and dagger heels. Dresses, either shift or shapely styles, came in digital prints from Peter Pilotto and Mary Katranzou or in lace with a beautiful one in black from Stella McCartney and tight black bandage styles from Donna Karan.
The inclusion of menswear reinforced the look of unshowy, but assured tailoring for both sexes, even in utilitarian gear like parkas and quilted jackets. Newly introduced this season is Parisian label Isabel Marant, known for upscale streetwear with a glossy edge while Dries Van Noten’s shapely printed jackets and cargo pants had the same offhand elegance.
Though there was no sign yet of the fuller skirts, a 1950s silhouette coming our way, the finale of evening dresses from Lanvin, Vionnet and Victoria Beckham were tweaked or zippered for supple bodies able to take their foxy shapes.
With terrific tousled upstyle hairdos by Michael Leong this was a well focused, sober show with many desirable classy pieces to whet the winter appetite, for those who can afford it.